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  1. #11
    Tinhorn
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetwater View Post
    I also take exception to the "hard cast" commercial bullets that every one is selling these days. My straight wheelweights water dropped straight from the mold hardens the surface so the bullet holds together up to at least 2600fps (as fast as I've driven them so far) and leaves the rest of the bullet soft enough to open up on game. Antelope, deer, and elk out to 150 yards from 32Wspl - 183gr at near 2300fps. And no, you don't need to spend a lot of money to start casting, but you can. My only electric pot is a 10# Lee, bought at a yard sale in a box with 15#of pure lead and lyman lubrasizer with several sizing dies, all for the princely sum of $25. I sold the lead to a BPCR competitive pal of mine for $10 win-win. I have used my coleman stove, the gas stove in my camper, the electric stove in my house, a gas burner in the shop, a campfire at the lake. Whatever works for a heat supply and any cast iron pot at a thrift store. Watch the shopping guides for a private sale of "his" stuff. They are everywhere...good luck and trust Veral. You may not understand his concepts and you may not agree with all of it (I've known him over 40 years and still don't) but he will not steer you wrong and he does stand by his stuff. He has a profile along with the LFN, WFN, etc that is for Marlin rifles. I doubt very much you will ever get a WFN to feed as it is so fat and the Marlin chambers are so not cut to fit that. A WLN might, but what ever Veral cuts you WILL feed so do go with his recommendations. You will be blessed..
    I went with the .460 diameter 400 gr in LFN. I will see how I like it and I might get a WLN mould later down the road.

    Thanks for the reply. You are right. I decided to just trust Veral on this seeing it is my first time casting.
    Sweetwater likes this.

  2. #12
    Sidewinder
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    That sounds like a great mold. Can't wait to hear your range results.

  3. #13
    Tenderfoot
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    ZIP metals has a great selection of lead and lead alloys available at fairly reasonable prices.

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  5. #14
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    In 1993, I picked up two 5 gal pails of wheelweights. Around 10 years later, I got 65 lbs of printer's lead for $65 delivered. I've yet to use any of the printer's lead and have about 5 lbs of wheelweight ingots left. I expect there will still be some left when I pass all this stuff down. My son will probably say the same thing I told my Dad when he offered me his casting outfit. "No thanks, Pop!" Ha, ha! It took 9 years for me to figure out that if I was going to shoot, I was going to have to cast. It was that simple. There was no choice. In my budget, baby stuff always won out over shooting stuff...LOL
    Sweetwater
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  6. #15
    jgt
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    Loading and casting is not about economics. It's about capability.
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  7. #16
    Distinguished Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgt View Post
    Loading and casting is not about economics. It's about capability.
    jgt is 100% correct! John "Pondoro" Taylor once stated that the cast lead bullet was the most perfect bullet ever developed.....and I believe that still holds true. Keep in mind, that "back in the day" the cast lead bullet took every animal that walked the earth......soft or pure lead for thin skinned game and pewter hardened lead alloys for use on thick skinned game. I have been playing with different alloy's and hardness factors for some time now, and have come to realize that a cast bullet can be made to do anything that one would desire. After not only doing penetration and expansion testing, but, all out destructive testing of cast bullets of differing alloy's and hardness's I would put a "made for the purpose" cast bullet up against just about any jacketed bullet produced..........................to add to that, over the long term casting your own bullets is cost effective, and you dont have to settle for store bought cast bullets that offer very limited performance parameters..........as far as molds, I have a number of LBT's and for my custom designs I use Tom at Accurate Molds to make custom molds for that purpose. I also have a few Lee molds and they serve the purpose as well.
    "Overkill.............is WAY underrated."
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  8. #17
    Esteemed Sharpshooter
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    I shoot my own cast bullets in all my handguns except a Ruger SBH that I use 240xtps and full magnum loads. In rifles all my originals from 25/20 up to 45/70 I shoot cast. I've got a 1970s 1895 that I have shot a lot of cast in. Used 322gr Gould Express HP an old Lyman Ideal design. Shot as cast pan lubed. In fact the only reason I held onto this rifle was its accuracy. This particular rifle is a cherry off the assembly line. Now it's turned for hot loads with 300gr JHPs for deer.

    Before you buy a 500gr mold I would buy a few and try them. I never shot them in new 1895 but I had a old Marlin in 45/90 that I loaded with 500gr cast and it would rattle your teeth with BP loads. I have shot several deer with 405 cast in original RBs and trapdoors and never failed to have bullet exit. That was with 1200fps loads and deer as much as 125yds. I killed just as many with the 322hp. I have a 366gr but have never poured it.

    To much overthinking on bullets for animals other than big bears and African game. When you get .40 and above any bullet that shoots accurately in your rifle is more than enough for deer, black bear and hogs. The only reason I'm shooting 300JHPs in my 95 is for the velocity to flatten out ballistics a little.
    Never trust a man who rents pigs : Gus, Lonesome Dove

  9. #18
    Gunfighter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groundpounder17 View Post
    So after trying to contact Beartooth bullets for 3 weeks with no success I decided it’s time to start casting my own boolits.
    I have an 1895 GBL and I was wanting some molds for both 425 and 525 gr similar to the piledriver.
    After speaking to Veral he really pushed the 400 gr LFN mold loaded at about 1500 fps
    Can anyone tell me the differences between the LFN, WFN and WLN?
    I’m thinking about ordering 2 molds from him. The 400 gr LFN and also something along the lines of 500 gr. Should I go with the recommended profile and size of Veral or should I get the WFN? Which profile should I get in the heavier 500 gr range?
    GP'17,

    Congratulations on becoming a caster. You will not look back. A new world of options is in front of you. If you want hunting bullets, the wide flat nose is a good choice. However, you don't need to over do it when you use an alloy that is not super hard like most pre made bullets come in today.

    If you have not seen Accurate Molds, you should look them up on line. The pricing is about average for customer molds. No need to get more than two cavities or an oversized longer block. Aluminum is the best material and easiest to use for someone new to casting. If I recall correctly, your barrel has Ballard rifling so loads up to the 1,500 fps range you are looking for will not need a gas check.

    If I can suggest, a easy to blend alloy is electrotype 96-2-2. A great alloy that will expand at supersonic fps unlike many of the super hard alloys. For slower loads with the 500 gr a simple 25-1 lead-tin allow will get the job done and expand at the slower speeds. 1 pound of Rotometals foundry blend and 11.5 pounds of pure lead will give you the 96-2-2 blend. For the 25-1 12.5 pounds of lead and 1/2 pound of tin.

    Look up all of the mold designs Accurate has. I am sure Tom has something that will fit your needs. You may want to consider something in the 360 gr range vs the 405 if you are also going with a 500 gr pill. Be you buy be sure to verify that the nose length will meet the max OAL length of the cartridge so it will cycle correctly.

    Enjoy the new hobby! Oh, find a local commercial roofing company or flashing mfg in your area and see if they have scrap pure lead for sale. They always have scrap cuttings.


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