Question About Which Way to Attach The QD Sling Swivel to ALG Rail.
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Thread: Question About Which Way to Attach The QD Sling Swivel to ALG Rail.



  1. #1
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    Question About Which Way to Attach The QD Sling Swivel to ALG Rail.

    Ok, I know you press the button and stick it in the hole.

    My question pertains to this: I am using the ALG Forged 7075-T6 Q.D. Sling Swivels. The Magpul Sling is a tad wider than the swivel's loop, but it'll go, so am using both. At .5 oz they're the lightest QD Sling Swivels I can find. I want to be able to remove the sling at a moments notice, plus me and having to loop the sling ends through the sling slots on a butt stock would be a constant act of futility. Let's just say I am "looping sling end through sling slot handicapped". LOL..

    Hence a QD Swivel on each end of my Magpul sling.

    Now... this ALG V-2 rail has a hole for the QD Swivel already in it. but attaching it that way allows QD Swivel's loop, as well as the portion of sling coming off the swivel to touch the rail

    While modding this AR 556, a couple months ago I went ahead & purchased the Magpul M-Lok Sling Mount. (https://www.magpul.com/products/m-lok-qd-sling-mount) I installed it tonight on the rail, in the M-Lok slot right in front of the rail's hole for a sling swivel. Sling doesn't touch rail and neither does the Sling Swivel' loop. Ta Da! Scratching problem solved...(right?)

    Questions:

    1) Nylon sling will melt to a HOT rail...Yes or No? I figure YES...amirite?.

    2) So better to use the Magpul M-Lok Sling Swivel Mount isn't it? (it stands @ 1/4" higher than rail and lets sling swivel's loop clear the rail. The nylon Sling strap clears a lot better too.

    3) NOW: Would just using the ALG V-2's existing sling swivel hole scratch the Mil Spec anodizing on my ALG V-2 rail's finish ? Or is the finish tough enough it won't scratch from swivel loop and the post contacting it over a long period of use.... If the latter is the case, I can save a 1/2 oz (not sure if that weight includes the screws and M-Lok fastener blocks) of weight on my rifle. Remember I am going for as light a n AR as I can get/afford. Hoping for it to come in at 6.5 lb. total without sling. (maybe/fat chance?). That's what Ruger says the AR556 weighs when new with sight block and plastic handgaurd.

    4) Just how hard/easy is it to scratch the black mil-spec anodizing on my ALG V-2 Rail ? I'm in the dark about just how tough the anodized finish is guys.......what say Ye?

    BTW/FYI... I discovered tonight that the Mission First Tactical "Minimalist" butt stock fits perfect with no annoying flop on buffer tube like the Magpul MOE and Ruger original butt stocks did. M.F.T. Minimalist fits SNUG with no 'flop" at all! And weighs in at 5.8 oz. Win/Win....
    Last edited by MarlinManCB45/70; 06-25-2019 at 11:00 PM.
    My avatar is in Honor of my Great Grandfather , Corporal J.M. Johnston , who fought for the N.C. Confederate 36th Regiment , Company H , Heavy Artillery & who was captured by the Union at Fort Fisher, NC on Sunday, Jan. 15 1865 at @ 10:00PM.


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  2. #2
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    1) Nylon (depending on the type) has a melting temperature about 525 degrees F. As I am certain you know, if your rail reaches that temperature your last worry will be your sling.

    2) You answered your own question. I see the issue with your forearm; the existing quick detach hole is located in the wrong spot. What genius came up with this design? It's almost like somebody said, "You know what we forgot? No problem, here's an open spot." Normally, the nylon sling itself will be the contact point with the forearm at the 90 and/or 180 degree location, so the metal sling swivel would never contact the forearm.

    3) I looked them up online and there was nothing there about their "coating" so I cannot asses the durability. If it is the traditional parkerized finish, that it a fairly tough coating but all coatings, including hard chrome (which is approximately 70 Rockwell) will wear depending on what they are subjected to.Will your sling swivel scratch it? It could.

    4) If it is just plain anodized, we would need to know the thickness which is probably included in the Mil-Spec requirement. Whatever it is, I wouldn't get too rough with an anodized forearm....but define rough.

    Now for my question. If you were going for lightweight, why would you have chosen an M-Lock style? Shouldn't you have purchased a key-mod? I'll admit to being a fan boy for Midwest Industries because that is where I received my AR assembly training, but they make a small diameter key-mod that would help you meet your weight goal.....and have properly located quick detachment holes.

    Lastly, if your concern is scratching, you could just buy tool dip plastic and dip the ring portion of your quick detachable swivel. It's the stuff that is used to make the soft handles on pliers. Home Depot also sells this stuff in a spray can but I have never been overly successful with it. If there is a way to get that ring off without destroying it, you could also put a piece of shrink tube around it and of course shrink it to fit. Lastly, there is good old electrical tape you could rap around the ring.

    Or see if you could return the thing.
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    ALG Defense is made by Geissele Automatics.

    Is there a "preferred" position/place along the rail that one is to place the sling's QD Swivel on the AR-15 forearm/rail ? Out towards the muzzle end? 1/2 way between muzzle and bbl nut?. Just in front of bbl. nut ?..what is the accepted practice ?
    .I presume it's just personal preference/what fits owner ? I'm using a Magpul MS-1 sling.

    This is a 16" barreled Carbine Ruger AR-556. I have a Magpul AFG forward grip mounted underneath and the gas block sits about centered in the AFG. Not sure how that's gonna work out due to heat of gas block..but I have long arms.

    Also mounted are 2 magpul 3 slot piccatinnys, one mounted on each side of rail @ 1 3/4" from end of rail (it's a 15 incher). They are for mounting my 2 (or just one) Olight WMLs in case of coyotes. Especially the rabid ones.

    I figure the forward QD Sling swivel should be placed on the rail where the rifle "hangs "level" when the sling is held in it's center, or on my shoulder ? Or close to it ? What is "the preferred method ? Just trying to get a feel if there's something I'm doing wrong.

    The ALG V 2's coating is same as the AR 15's are that are true mil spec, but I figure if/when I remove an M-Lok attachment device (whatever it may be, a piccatiny rail, forward grip etc) there'll be witness marks left on the rail where it was once mounted. Amirite? That's what I actually want to know I guess.

    I chose M-Lok because it's a better/stronger retention system. I like it. Sometimes I can be clumsy LOL.
    My avatar is in Honor of my Great Grandfather , Corporal J.M. Johnston , who fought for the N.C. Confederate 36th Regiment , Company H , Heavy Artillery & who was captured by the Union at Fort Fisher, NC on Sunday, Jan. 15 1865 at @ 10:00PM.


    In Dixie Land I'll Take My Stand , To Live And Die in Dixie

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  5. #4
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    Well I have 3 of my own and installed a bunch of his triggers in other AR's. So I like them...a lot. But he can keep those forearms as far as I am concerned. Please don't misunderstand. Different people like different things. Just because I don't like it means little to someone who does. That's why they started making cars in colors other than black and there are seemingly infinite variations in AR components.

    Quick release connection point location is a tough question to answer. It depends on the method of carry. However, independent of the hole location, the only place on the circumference of the forearm that I have ever seen is 90, 180 and 270 degrees from the top rail. The holes are placed on both the muzzle end or the end by the upper near the barrel nut. There is usually positions on the stock also. Why? Because of all the different carry methods. For example, I just ordered a McMillan stock for a bolt action rifle that will be used exclusively for hunting. I am having them install quick disconnect sockets on the bottom and sides of the stock in the traditional locations on this traditionally configured stock. If I mount the sling on the side, I can carry the gun flat against my back making it more stable, which can be advantageous on long treks. If I attach the sling underneath like slings have been located since they were invented, then I can get the gun up on target faster. With AR's there is single point carry, two point carry on the side with the gun in front of you muzzle down, single point carried the same as the two point, on your back flat or traditional carry and more I am certain that I don't know about. So like you said, it depends on the owner and their needs.

    You have a free float forearm. Heat transfer from the barrel and gas block will be minimal, unless your rate of fire is excessive.

    The preferred method of carry for fast access is the one the competition folks tend to use. That is the two point method, strong side (depends if you are right or left handed).Gun lays flat on your chest with the muzzle down. Gun comes up very fast and on target. If you don't need that then whatever works for you.

    As far as leaving marks with an M-Lok depends on how high you torque it down. Follow the torque recommendation the accessory manufacturer gives you, which will be in inch-pounds, and you should have minimum witness marks. But I wouldn't count on it. It's an AR with a parkerized finish. The finish tends to flatten or compress where something is mounted to it, which will be noticeable if you are looking hard for it. But it won't jump out at you. AR's don't look all that good in the first place. They were designed originally for military applications (tough and durable but not pretty), so a few marks here and there won't really matter as the imperfections tend to get lost in the finish. The only way to avoid cosmetic issues with any gun is to keep them in the safe in a gun sock.
    flatsneck likes this.
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  6. #5
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    Some really excellent answers I cant add too. Just to say good to see some value the sling as I do. The sling on a rifle IMO is as a holster to a handgun. Maybe more so as it can be used as a steady when shooting. Every rifle I have has its own, adjusted to work as a hasty.
    4mynra likes this.
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