What cleaning / preserving products?
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  1. #1
    Tenderfoot
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    What cleaning / preserving products?

    In the past I have shot my grandfathers muzzle loaders as well as a few friends. About 7-8 years ago I bought a used Wolf magnum inline it’s one of the break actions like a single shot shotgun. Uses a shotgun primer. I’ve never shot this before. It’s just sat in my safe. I bought it for 75 bucks with a bushnell 3X9 scope with the intention of taking it pig hunting. It never happened. So today I pulled it out cleaned it up and I’m going to take it shooting next weekend. The guy I got it from would use two 777 pellets and 295g powerbelts. I reload and for some reason the pellets just don’t interest me. So I’m going to go see what I can find at Cabela’s for powder. Anyway for the past however man years I’ve just used regular gun oils and cleaning products on it. It’s sat in the gun safe. Currently I use barricade on all my guns that do not get regularly shot and cleaned. I also use Hoppe’s Gun grease on things like the slide rails on handguns. It’s probaby not needed. I’ve been on a froglube kick for a while now for my regularly used handguns and rifles. Seems to work good if you use it right. Anyway I’m planning on using the soap and water cleaning method I think to clean after shooting. Anyway I’ve read a bunch of things that says only use natural products no petroleum based products on muzzle loaders. I get the whole powder can get messed up thing. I can see that being a big issue for traditional muzzle loaders maybe but I don’t know. Inline Muzzle loaders seem easier to clean than my rifles. One screw takes the whole thing apart remove breach plug. On all my guns every stinking one of them I oil / lube the bore. The ones that sit in the safe I leave oil in the bore. The ones that get shot get a dry patch or two ran through them. Ya their is a super thin layer of oil left which gets vaporized on the first shot or two. So is their a real ligitamate issue with using petroleum based products and black powder other than the possibility of issues with wet powder? Does it cause like a chemical reaction or something? So with that said say you are going hunting. And you don’t unload / shoot the rifle and you decide to leave it loaded because you are going to be hunting several days or whatever, how do you protect the bore from rusting up? Do you leave products like bore butter in the barrel? Well I’m probaby overthinking this any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Gunfighter
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    I'm a lot newer to black powder shooting but have only been using hot water and soap when I get done shooting or at the end of the season after firing, followed by a oily patch followed by a dry patch. Before I shoot it again or load it I ensure I I fire 2 caps to blast out any residue that was inside the barrel to protect the black powder that will be loaded. I'm following this to see what others use for a cleaning regime as well.
    JMAG54 likes this.
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  3. #3
    Wrangler
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    Hot water with a drop of liquid soap. Hot water rinse, followed by dry patches.. When completely dry, an oily patch to keep from rusting.
    Judson, JMAG54 and Gareth Holland like this.

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  5. #4
    Tinhorn
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    I have shot Black in pistol, rifle and shotgun for SASS matches for years. The easiest method I use from the back of my truck is a mixture of Ballistol and water in proportions 1/4 Ballistol and 3/4 water. This solution on patches will remove black powder residue and leave a mineral oil film to present rusting. I know many who use 1/10 to 9/10 and any proportion in between. Soap and water works but the weapon will rust immediately after cleaning if oil is not applied.

  6. #5
    Distinguished Master
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    For years it was, probably will again, be soap and HOT water in a bucket. Final rinse with boiling hot water. Dry, then some type of gun oil........Recently have used a store bought concoction for BP guns (looks like milk) to clean with their bore preservative paste. Don't have the brand name handy. Seems to work, costly though.

    John

    ............I always run a dry patch through every weapon bore/cylinder I have before shooting. 'Ready' weapons are kept pretty dry.
    rob42049 likes this.

  7. #6
    Gun Wizard
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    I use Murphy's oil soap about 1-10 with water for Black powder. I usually plug the nipple/touch hole and let some soak for a while. I blast it out with a patch on the jag then follow up with several more patches. I then blast with WD40 to remove any residual water. I follow that with a patch soaked with Cleanz Oil if it is not going to be shot for a while.I wipe down the exterior with Cleanz Oil.
    I do not remember the last time I used boiling or hot water to clean up with. I do not like the flash rust I got.
    The new fangled powders you are on your own.
    rob42049 and Gareth Holland like this.
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  8. #7
    Gun Wizard
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    With both black powder and Pyrodex I clean the same way, and inlines with removable breach plugs are easy cleaners. I remove the breech plug to soak in hot, soapy water. I stick the muzzle into another vessel filled with hot, soapy water. I wet a patch, and with the cleaning jag run it up and down the barrel. It certainly doesn't take much "cleaning mixture" because you only need enough to draw into the barrel. I rinse with hot, clean water, and then repeat the clean and the rinse. I dry it out with several patches and then run a patch down through with some 3-in-1 oil on it. I then scrub the outside of the breech plug with an old toothbrush, and rinse it out. I blow moisture out of the end of the breech plug until no more comes out, put a small amount of bearing grease on the threads of the plug and re-install. There are other ways, but this works for me and I always have the needed materials -- a can of grease used for this purpose only lasts for decades, there's always some 3-in-1 oil somewhere in the house, there's always Dawn dishwashing liquid under the sink, and the water heater generally isn't on the fritz. One bad thing is that my muzzleloaders are cleaned in the kitchen while all my other firearms are cleaned at my workbench. My wife always comments on the "rotten egg" smell, but after 41 years of marriage she still hasn't filed for divorce. There are some that claim that Pyrodex must be cleaned up after differently than Holy Black. They are free to do so.

    When I hunt and shoot in the field, I'll "clean" with a spit patch and then a dry one before I reload, and really clean it at home at the end of the day. At the beginning of the muzzleloading season, I'll run one dry patch down the barrel before I load. I don't take a "fouling" shot prior. Some of my frontstuffers have been cleaned/handled this way for almost 40 years and when I miss (which I'm fully capable of doing) it's me and not the gun.

  9. #8
    Tinhorn
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    The cleaning ritual is always hot soapy water followed by several rinses, then drying.
    My final step is to run a patch with "Bore Butter" down the barrel.
    I leave the Bore Butter in the barrel until I pull it out to use the next time. Simply run a dry patch through and pop off one cap to make sure.

    Easy as can be, and I've never had a front-stuffer rust.

  10. #9
    Gunfighter
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    RCL - My recommendation is to switch powders to Blackhorn 209 - it is much less corrosive than other BP substitutes, on our 4 muzzle loaders it is extremely accurate and consistent, utilizes regular powder solvents for cleanup and is better around moisture. I have also seen the terminal performance of a few powerbelts and would recommend moving to a well constructed sabot bullet - I use either Barnes or Bonded.

    These recommendations come from 15 or so very active Oklahoma ML seasons where our group averages killing 20 to 50 animals in the 9 day season each year - deer and wild hogs. I have been on many tracks/recoveries, cleaned and butchered many per year - helping people with ML's that are performing poorly.
    Gareth Holland likes this.

  11. #10
    Wrangler
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