THE MARLIN TRIGGER - Page 4
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Thread: THE MARLIN TRIGGER



  1. #31
    Sidewinder
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    Swaney: I was in the process of ordering a WW trigger but EagleH talked me into trying your tutorial..You just saved me $90.
    I had to struggle with aligning the trigger/hammer screw and reassembliing the spring on the hammer strut, but the rest of the job was "duck soup".
    Trigger pull now measures 3-1/2 lbs. on my fish scale. I don't want it any lighter on a hunting rifle..I now have a "custom" 336W.
    Many thanks!

    Bad Bob

  2. #32
    Gun Wizard
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    I originally posted my trigger polishing job on the .45-70 forum:
    decent trigger pull now

    As typical of lever actions, my 1895GBL trigger was a little rough, with a slight "catch" or "notch" in its travel, and heavy of course. I don't want the trigger to be "sharp as glass" or any such, because it has to be safe from bumping, etc. I used the Buck honing stones (Wa****a and Arkansas) for much of the action work, but just the fine Arkansas stone and 800 and 1000 grit paper on the sear and hammer notch. I made sure the angles didn't change; the idea is that the sear has to go uphill as it disengages from the hammer. If it is sliding level, or worse downslope, you will have an unsafe trigger. I don't like to bend the spring as that creates stress risers and it is also hard to predict the effects, both short- and long-term. You can decrease the depth of the notch in the hammer somewhat, say 30%, if you leave the edge sharp and the angle the same. The easy way for me was to watch the angle carefully while drawing the hammer across a diamond knife sharpening flat stone. then polish with the Arkansas stone and work to 1000 grit aluminum oxide paper. That will reduce creep, and weight of pull some, as the hammer does not have to be pulled back so far by the trigger as the sear runs "uphill." Look at the parts and you will see that a big reason for weight of trigger pull is that the trigger is pulling the hammer back farther. Just don't overdo it and make the notch too shallow. Better to r&r the hammer a few times than to cut too much and make the notch unreliable at all. I made a trigger pull gauge from stiff wire and pieces of steel, including small washers that I weighed on a precision balance. The trigger now is smooth, has minimal creep, and has a 4.14 pound pull.

    The above procedures are my opinion, and not intended to advise you. Do what you are comfortable with.
    gadjolever likes this.

  3. #33
    Sidewinder
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    I believe that removing metal (up to 30%) from the notch in the hammer is a risky proposition and can lead to an unsafe firearm. I see nothing wrong with changing the angle of the sear as in Swaney's tutorial. If you look closely at the pictures of a Wild West trigger kit, that is exactly what their sear profile seems to indicate along with a closer fit between the sear and trigger.

    BB

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  5. #34
    Gun Wizard
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    If done carefully, all that is done by making the notch shallower is reduction in "creep" or trigger travel. Look at a bolt action trigger for comparison. I consider it much more risky to change the angles.

  6. #35
    Tenderfoot
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    Swany, thank you. My first 39a and the trigger was like dragging a cinder block with your pinky! I used your excellent instructions and have a very nice 4 lb trigger. Many thanks for sharing.

  7. #36
    Contributing Member
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    Thanks for the lesson. My 336RC had a pull of 7.2 pounds. Bent the spring just a little as you showed and it dropped to a 5.3 pound pull. Did the honing (might have done a little more but wasn't comfortable) and it took it to 4.6 pounds. I'm gonna go ahead and leave it like that. Again, thanks for posting these helpful tips and lessons.

  8. #37
    Tenderfoot
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    Does anyone have a picture of what a good trigger sear for a JC Higgins model 103.18 (Marlin 100) is supposed to look like? Mine is all worn down (maybe filed?) and is causing problems when I cycle the bolt back and forth. Here's a picture:


    image1.JPGimage5.JPG
    I don't think that notch is supposed to be there (or be so big), nor am I sure about that angled area. Any suggestions?
    Sr. Chief


    Marlin 25N .22LR
    J.C. Higgins 103.18 .22S,L, LR single shot

    Team Bolt Action Rimfire #83


    "IF you could kick the person in the pants who is the most responsible for your troubles, you wouldn't sit for a month." - Theodore Roosevelt

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  9. #38
    Gun Wizard
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    Quote Originally Posted by swany View Post
    Okay the trigger spring is bent and rebent so far so good here is the trigger removed and laying on a India Oilstone medium grit. Added is the triggers top with permanent marker blackening it for stoning proof. Pic is blurry but trust it is what I said.
    Edit: nevermind, trigger pin fell right out, literally turned on the side and the thing fell easily out. I wonder if that indicates I should get a new pin?
    Last edited by gadjolever; 06-16-2015 at 10:44 AM.

  10. #39
    Gun Wizard
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    Quote Originally Posted by swany View Post
    Okay the trigger spring is bent and rebent so far so good here is the trigger removed and laying on a India Oilstone medium grit. Added is the triggers top with permanent marker blackening it for stoning proof. Pic is blurry but trust it is what I said.
    Guys, for cutlery sharpening, I use a two-sided water stone, a Shapton Pro Series 1000-grit, two-sided stone. This is a coarse/medium stone. Would the finer side suffice, here? Or should I be more cautious and go finer, even substantially finer?


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