Taking it slow and steady - first time reloading - painfully slow for you fellas
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Thread: Taking it slow and steady - first time reloading - painfully slow for you fellas



  1. #1
    Marlin Marksman
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    Taking it slow and steady - first time reloading - painfully slow for you fellas

    But I just want to do this safe and accurate. I started with a progressive style reloader which probably wasn't smart but I got it for half price...so what do you do.

    Still not all put together yet, but I am prepping the brass so I can continue with the Video that came with it and the info with the dies...so bare with me guys.....

    I have read the beginning chapters of the Lyman book three times now...still have questions though.

    Got the Dillon 550B mounted (plywood is way oversized maybe but oh well for now) and I mounted my trimmer.

    So I am in the process of trimming to 2096 right now (as they started out at 2095 in the book).

    heres' some pics and I have a couple of questions after if it's ok (just a little nervous doing this on my own so please bare with me).

    the setup....loader and trimmer on the right



    My reloading dies RCBS and I didn't realize I had bought a Lee precision Roll crimp die (it's been 3.5 years since I bought most of this stuff) and didn't realize the RCBS would do the crimping too on the third die that seats and crimps.



    My scale (I use this one for my archery stuff so I am thinking this will be ok if I get a powder dipper seperatley) and my trimmer



    My cartridge holder (just going to do 10 for now) with one dummy round to start - (no primer or powder - think that's safer fo rme right now).



    My starline brass from Rusty Wood




    Questions:

    1 - New brass: Do I need to clean these after trimming - I have a Sonic cleaner, but being brand new I wasn't sure if that was needed - just wiped maybe ?

    2 - Lubing - I have the Lyman liquid lube and the foam pad......it says to be cautious of getting the lube in the primer hole (should be too hard to do) also to lude the inside of the neck.

    BUT - to clean the lube off after resizing (so that's after depriming and priming (first station right).......so with a progressive that seems counter productive to me.

    3 - Should I use the lee crimping die on the fourth spot......like I say the RCBS says it does both and I can probably make that work.

    Thanks jer
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  2. #2
    Wrangler
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    You do not need to clean the brass after trimming. You do need to chamfer and debur.

    I will let others chime in on questions 2 and 3 as I do not reload with a progressive (though if I could get a nice Dillon for half price, I am sure that I would put up with my wife's unhappiness for a bit). But for me, single stage loading, I do it in these steps for my rifle brass and skip the lubing for 45 ACP (my only pistol reloading at this time):

    1 inspect cases for damage and wear
    2 decap fired brass with universal decapper
    3 clean fired brass in stainless wet tumbler (I do this after decapping because the stainless does a great job of cleaning the primer pockets for me)
    4 dry cases
    5 inspect
    6 lube outside of case and resize
    7 wipe lube
    8 measure brass and inspect
    9 trim if needed (when I trim, I do the whole batch at one time and bring them all back to minimum spec even if just one is over maximum spec)
    10 chamfer and debur if trimmed
    11 mica lube necks and flare case mouths
    12 wipe off the mica if I have made a mess - leave it if I have managed to stay conservative with it (dry lube like mica or graphite will not harm the powder or primers)
    13 prime cases
    14 charge cases
    15 seat bullets
    16 crimp (I have the same RCBS die set that you have but I seat and crimp in separate operations as I am sometimes switching back and forth between bullets and I am just doing small batches. If I had a progressive or was doing many more than the 50 or so that I do at a time, I would set the die to seat and crimp in the same operation.)
    17 final inspect and wipe down

    shoot and repeat!

    You will notice that some of my steps are out of order compared to my favorite reloading book, the Lyman 49th. You will also note that the way I do things will not work in the progressive as it will disrupt the progressive operations.

    Others will come along and tell you the right way to do it in a progressive, but if it were me I would only use a progressive on rounds that I did not have to deal with lubing (like the pistol cartridges). But again, I am a small batch reloader when it comes to my rifle rounds.
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    farmersteve

    Team 45-70 #1425
    Wanted to be #4570, but don't have the patience.

  3. #3
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    Jer,

    First off, unless your Starline brass is really running wild length wise. it should need no trimming!

    I have some of my Starline brass which is fired 8 times and it has yet to be trimmed.

    Get some RCBS water soluble lube.

    One of the things I don't like about a progressive for rifle cartridges, is I DON"T like a lubed case needing to be handled for anything other then sizing, after which I clean the cases and wash my hands!

    I really don't like the idea, I know I'm just an Ol'Coot, of a lubed case running through the rest of the process.

    I have watched a hand loader size and prime cases without taking the steps to make sure no lube was carried on to the primer and that Fall, one of the family, - all shooting .270s - had a failure to fire.

    I know you are not needing to touch or handle cases once they are started in the progressive, but I don't want a lubed case close to my primers! That is just the way I am and ain't going to change at this late stage in the game.

    I'd check a dozen or so cases for case length, but I think your over thinking the process and I doubt they really needed trimming and de-burring as new cases.

    To bad things didn't work out for you to come down here, as I could have saved you a lot of effort in rethinking this situation.

    FORGET THAT LEE DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 3 die set should do it all, IF PROPERLY ADJUSTED>

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

    P.S. get a single stage press to go with the Dillon!
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  5. #4
    Gun Wizard
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty Deary Ol Coot View Post
    Jer,

    First off, unless your Starline brass is really running wild length wise. it should need no trimming!

    I have some of my Starline brass which is fired 8 times and it has yet to be trimmed.

    Get some RCBS water soluble lube.

    One of the things I don't like about a progressive for rifle cartridges, is I DON"T like a lubed case needing to be handled for anything other then sizing, after which I clean the cases and wash my hands!

    I really don't like the idea, I know I'm just an Ol'Coot, of a lubed case running through the rest of the process.

    I have watched a hand loader size and prime cases without taking the steps to make sure no lube was carried on to the primer and that Fall, one of the family, - all shooting .270s - had a failure to fire.

    I know you are not needing to touch or handle cases once they are started in the progressive, but I don't want a lubed case close to my primers! That is just the way I am and ain't going to change at this late stage in the game.

    I'd check a dozen or so cases for case length, but I think your over thinking the process and I doubt they really needed trimming and de-burring as new cases.

    To bad things didn't work out for you to come down here, as I could have saved you a lot of effort in rethinking this situation.

    FORGET THAT LEE DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 3 die set should do it all, IF PROPERLY ADJUSTED>

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

    P.S. get a single stage press to go with the Dillon!
    Unless it is a really bad batch of brass you shouldn't have to do anything with the starline brass. I do everything with the RCBS dies. Set yourself up with one dummy round to make sure it's going to chamber and it doesn't hurt to go just a little under on the specs for length. So instead of 2.55 you can go 2.52 or 2.53 and you know your not going to have a chambering problem. You have a fine looking setup Jer. I just have a Rockchucker and run all my brass through each stage that I'm loading. Let us know how it's working out for you.
    Bill
    Team 45-70 #1569


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  6. #5
    Marlin Marksman
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    Ok guys next question then.

    THey say in the RCBS set that number one - deprimes and resizes and my progressive then primes it...not problem position one in the progressive.

    Second one expands and fares - PROBLEM is that the powder die (position two) in the Press actually flairs when it sets the powder......what do I do then?

    Third seats and crimps......

    so setting this up I should not use the second one? and just let the powder one do that

    sorry a real newbie

    And I wish you were closer Crusty

    jer
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  7. #6
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    I don't know much about progressive presses. Sounds good for pistol cartridges. I use a Rock Chucker.
    I think the conservative approach to getting started is good. My brother came to my place and helped me. I too had tons of questions, even after reading the Lyman #49 manual
    Good luck
    keep us posted
    It is enjoyable, great therapy for me
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  8. #7
    Marlin Marksman
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    So this is what she looks like now...just added the powder die set




    Then these are the shells I ran through it...the top one was the first one and is more flared so I backed it off a bit and I think thats better, but maybe you can let me know what you think.





    Feeling like a fish outta water right now.....anyone need some flytying or flyfishing or trad bowhunting or tennis or electrical help/advise

    thanks jer
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  9. #8
    Marlin Marksman
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    I agree VT - but this was a good deal and I guessed it would be ez with my buddy right there accept I didn't end up back in the Yukon


    he won the press at a fish and game banquet and I bought it for 200 bucks basically......thought I couldn't go wrong and I know once I et this figured out it will be fine....just the time between now and then
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  10. #9
    Wrangler
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    If it were me - I'd resize and deprime on the 1st stage - then clean the cases. Once they are clean, I'd prime them and then move on to the powder stage - bell the case mouth and drop the powder.
    I use my 550 for bulk loading 5.56. I resize/deprime on a single stage press, then clean the cases. My 1st position on the 550 is a universal deprimeing die (gets rid of any cleaning media from the flash hole/primer pocket). Then I continue in the normal progressive order. Since I'm using a ball powder, the Dillon powder measure works great.

    Skyhunter
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  11. #10
    Marlin Marksman
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    it looks so ez here don't it



    hey she even looks good enough to keep

    Jer
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