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  1. #11
    Sidewinder
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan alder View Post
    Home - Reboring by J E S

    Everyone here loves JES. Plus I believe it only runs around $250 to have it rebored and rechambered
    Gonna have to locate a donor rifle in the next few weeks and get thing rolling. Thanks again.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW4Life View Post
    Gonna have to locate a donor rifle in the next few weeks and get thing rolling. Thanks again.
    Then we need some range reports, pictures ....... I love these projects!
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW4Life View Post
    Looks like I‘m going to be adding a custom 356 to the herd then! Thanks for the helpful information to all.
    Good call on the 356 Win. A 338ME would not have worked. Threads are different and the tighter ME specs would never work for a converted Model 336 frame. One member converted a Mod 336 30-30 to a 308ME a few years back. He found out he couldn't shoot factory ammo--too much pressure that locked up the action after each fired round.
    Last edited by Ret_Eng; 01-20-2020 at 06:57 AM.
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  5. #14
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    Good luck with the .356 win. I just fell into a great deal on a Winchester 94AE .356win and a couple hundred pieces of brass. I am hoping to pick it up in the next couple of days. I've been reading up on it and can't wait to start toying with it.
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  6. #15
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    One of my favorite rifles I have is a 336 SD that I converted to 307 Win. The action was lengthened so now I can run OAL of 2.690". It was rebarreled with a 22" Shilen. It is a shooter. For the purists out there, no worries! The barrel was already shot out and I tried everything to keep it from keyholing with no luck.

    I think another cool wildcat would be to use 307 brass and run it through a 30 TC die and then fireform it. It would have extremely straight walls and a 30 degree shoulder to help reduce bolt thrust. The shortened brass would allow you to run 308 win bullets with filed down and flattened tips without shortening the action. Essentially it would be a 308 ME with blown out walls and sharper shoulder
    Last edited by bryan alder; 01-20-2020 at 10:55 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW4Life View Post
    Been trying to find a factory original and am seeing it's next to impossible.
    So now I'm wandering what I'd need besides a rebore to convert an old 30-30 to a 338MX.
    Is the bolt carrier the same or would I need to modify it?
    How about the extractor?
    Thanks.
    PNW4Life

    I hate to throw a wrench in your plans, but the 338MX uses V Threads at the barrel/reciever interface............I don't think anyone should trust the older Square threads of a 30-30 rifle to contain the 338MX operating pressures and bolt thrust...........

    The 338MX was the hardest rifle Marlin EVER released to production, as far as setting the headspace tight enough using a Locking Bolt that fit the receiver tight enough to allow for smooth openings.......

    While the 338MX may offer advantages in the field, after having worked with the 338 rifles in North Haven, ..........I never wanted to own one................

    I am certain you will have MANY issues trying to use a 30-30 as a Donor rifle, and I would NEVER want to pull the trigger on such a rifle...............

    NOT saying it can't be done ........Of coarse it can,........... a rebore/rechamber and a little Bolt face/extractor work is simple..............However, knowing what I do, RE: the 336MX/MXLR............. I don't for a moment, think it would be safe!

    Of coarse you could "hand load" for such a rifle, and work up a load until you started to get sticky/hard openings, but then you've already exceeded the limits of the rifle, and you'll be nowhere close to a SAAMI spec load for a 338MX..........

    BAD Move!...........DON'T Do it!

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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan alder View Post
    One of my favorite rifles I have is a 336 SD that I converted to 307 Win. The action was lengthened so now I can run OAL of 2.690". It was rebarreled with a 22" Shilen. It is a shooter. For the purists out there, no worries! The barrel was already shot out and I tried everything to keep it from keyholing with no luck.

    I think another cool wildcat would be to use 307 brass and run it through a 30 TC die and then fireform it. It would have extremely straight walls and a 30 degree shoulder to help reduce bolt thrust. The shortened brass would allow you to run 308 win bullets with filed down and flattened tips without shortening the action. Essentially it would be a 308 ME with blown out walls and sharper shoulder
    How'd you lengthen the action? I had my 1894 modified to feed longer 44 mag bullets (1.78''), is this sort of what you mean by lengthened? It'd be handy if this were possible to do on a 336 action since the 200gr FTX requires shortening the EXPENSIVE/RARE 356 brass and I'd love to use those bullets if it were possible to do so without shortening the cases.
    I'm getting excited about the 356 conversion and having a powerful, unique levergun to chase the big stuff with this year!

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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW4Life View Post
    How'd you lengthen the action? I had my 1894 modified to feed longer 44 mag bullets (1.78''), is this sort of what you mean by lengthened? It'd be handy if this were possible to do on a 336 action since the 200gr FTX requires shortening the EXPENSIVE/RARE 356 brass and I'd love to use those bullets if it were possible to do so without shortening the cases.
    I'm getting excited about the 356 conversion and having a powerful, unique levergun to chase the big stuff with this year!
    No need to lengthen the action for the 356 for the 200 gr FTX. Use them all the time on my ER. And yes that is what lengthen the action means
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  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan alder View Post
    No need to lengthen the action for the 356 for the 200 gr FTX. Use them all the time on my ER. And yes that is what lengthen the action means
    Sounds like you've got a bit of experience with the 356 Win and various bullets...
    How does it perform with the 200gr FTXs on game? What velocities are you experiencing?
    Have you tried the 250gr Hawks? If so, how does it do with them?
    Would you prefer the Hawk or Hornadys for a do it all big game round in your 336ER?
    I'm thinking I'll cut my barrel to 18.5'', will this greatly inhibit potential performance with the heavier bullets?
    Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, I'll stop for now.
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  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW4Life View Post
    Sounds like you've got a bit of experience with the 356 Win and various bullets...
    How does it perform with the 200gr FTXs on game? What velocities are you experiencing?
    Have you tried the 250gr Hawks? If so, how does it do with them?
    Would you prefer the Hawk or Hornadys for a do it all big game round in your 336ER?
    I'm thinking I'll cut my barrel to 18.5'', will this greatly inhibit potential performance with the heavier bullets?
    Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, I'll stop for now.
    On deer the FTX works wonderful. Always had pass throughs and great expansion. But I think for all around the Speer 180 or 220 is better. For the FTX I was getting 2450 fps out of a 20" barrel. Don't have any experience with Hawk bullets but hear they are great. The 200 gr Sierra is also a great bullet. You really can't go wrong with any of them. But for elk, moose, or bear I personally wouldn't go with the FTX.
    shawlerbrook, Ret_Eng and Vooch like this.
    Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.” — William Pitt (the Younger), Speech in the House of Commons, November 18, 1783


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