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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lumpy grits View Post
    Shoot it before you mess with it, to get a base-line.
    White box WW is a good base line for ammo for this.
    It's a production barrel. NOT, an air-gauged match grade barrel.
    How did you 'touch up' the crown?
    LG
    I touched it up with some brass tear drops and grinding compound I bought at Brownel's a few year back. They do a good job and I bought them before I heard about Using brass screw heads, The job looks good under my loop.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lever Jac View Post
    I touched it up with some brass tear drops and grinding compound I bought at Brownel's a few year back. They do a good job and I bought them before I heard about Using brass screw heads, The job looks good under my loop.
    Looking good, and being truly concentric to the bore are two different subjects.
    LG
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  3. #13
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    The truth is that barrel is not in bad shape.Run a borescope in a new Savage barrel.They are so rough you would hardly believe they could shoot any kind of group at all,but they do. Fire lapping helps the throat more than the rest of the barrel ,so if you have throat erosion that is the way to go.Cleaning to bare metal is not always the answer.Some rifles like a fowled barrel better.I had a Model 93 38/55 who`s barrel looked like craters on the moon.I cleaned it to bare metal and it shot terrible.As soon as it was fowled enough groups shrunk tremendously.
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  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLBIKER View Post
    The truth is that barrel is not in bad shape.Run a borescope in a new Savage barrel.They are so rough you would hardly believe they could shoot any kind of group at all,but they do. Fire lapping helps the throat more than the rest of the barrel ,so if you have throat erosion that is the way to go.Cleaning to bare metal is not always the answer.Some rifles like a fowled barrel better.I had a Model 93 38/55 who`s barrel looked like craters on the moon.I cleaned it to bare metal and it shot terrible.As soon as it was fowled enough groups shrunk tremendously.
    You have that right about Savage barrels I bought a A22 last Dec but it wouldn't group. The bore on my 94 looks good compared to what was on this A22. Sent it back and Savage sent me a brand new gun. I pushed a couple of patches through it and took it to the range. It shot a lot of .75 groups @ 50 with aguila ammo. Cleaned it up and put the bore scope in it and to my surprise it looked pretty bad. Not as bad as the last one but far from pretty. I guess pretty is as pretty does.

    The crown on my 94 was uneven so I touched it up and was going to go to the range today but it rained all during my allotted range time. Monday is looking good though.
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  6. #15
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    I have the same 1894 CB rifle purchased around 2006 and it shoots good using 275 grn cast Keith type bullets. I have not looked up close with a bore scope but just eyeball when cleaning the bore looks good. I always thought the bores were drilled then precision reamed to size before button rifling. If precision reamed it should have a very smooth surface.

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cowboy23* View Post
    I have the same 1894 CB rifle purchased around 2006 and it shoots good using 275 grn cast Keith type bullets. I have not looked up close with a bore scope but just eyeball when cleaning the bore looks good. I always thought the bores were drilled then precision reamed to size before button rifling. If precision reamed it should have a very smooth surface.
    They use the reamer until it goes out of specs.The barrels reamed when the reamer is new will be better then when it is on its last legs.Custom barrel makers ream and then hand lap before rifling.If button rifled they also lap after rifling and then stress reliefed. The barrel that has button rifling puts a lot of stress on the steel grain.This is because you are ironing in the grooves.There is no stock remover as in a cut rifled barrel.
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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLBIKER View Post
    They use the reamer until it goes out of specs.The barrels reamed when the reamer is new will be better then when it is on its last legs.Custom barrel makers ream and then hand lap before rifling.If button rifled they also lap after rifling and then stress reliefed. The barrel that has button rifling puts a lot of stress on the steel grain.This is because you are ironing in the grooves.There is no stock remover as in a cut rifled barrel.
    I bought a Pac-Nor barrel, and along with the ordering sheet came an info packet. After they ream the blank, they heat treat to relieve stress, then check for straightness. Then they pull the rifling Button through, heat treat again to relieve all stress, straighten, and hand lap. I don't think commercial firearms manufacturers take this much care or machine time. The cost would be prohibitive. I doubt if Marlin heat treated barrels after button rifling. So, in a production firearm, there will be some barrel stress.

    After thousands of rounds, the hundreds of heating and cooling cycles will provide natural stress relief. This is why reboring/rerifling is preferred. The barrel is usually stress-free when it comes in to be worked on. The steel molecules are better aligned.
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  9. #18
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    I have a range report on my 94 45 colt. Finally made it to the range after re-crowning the muzzle and what a difference. I shot three 5 shot groups with Hornady gummy tips and all were under 1.5" at 50yds, with one called flyer. The barrel is still going to get fire lapped in the near future even if the lapping doesn't improve the accuracy it will still make it a lot easier to clean. After I fire lap it I will give another report. Thanks for all your input.
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