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Thread: Cracked stock repair



  1. #1
    Gun Wizard
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    Cracked stock repair

    I have a cracked stock, and plan to repair it, by inserting a knife into the end grain, and putting glue in the crack. Then clamping the stock.
    My question is, what kind of glue will flow into the crack best?
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  2. #2
    Team 35 Remington Co-Capt'n Contributing Member
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    I'm interested in hearing this, too.
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  3. #3
    Wrangler
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    The guys over on odcmp's forum swear by slightly spreading the crack as you say, apply Gorilla Glue and work it deep into the crack with dental floss. Then tightly tie, wrap, rubber band the stock together for 24 hours. I'd guess Elmer's would work as it always does.

  4. #4
    Tenderfoot
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    I just ran across your post this evening, small breaks can actually be trickier to repair than a big break since getting the resin into the crack can be a bear. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat and even more ways to repair a gunstock, the methods I use have been handed down to me by my mentor who has been doing his own gunsmithing since the 80's, he learned what he knew from the man before him who had been a gunsmith since the 50's.

    Glue is a dirty word, it has no place on a gunstock due to vibration and oil. It will break every time, I have repaired many stocks where previous owners have tried gluing things together. It has to then be removed before I can perform my own repairs.



    Regards,
    Last edited by Wind; 07-20-2012 at 10:00 PM.

  5. #5
    Marlin Marksman
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    gunfreak...so what do you use if not glue?
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    Bob

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  6. #6
    Marlin Marksman
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    I have used gorrilla glue but it foams and expands like crazy, I won't use it again.

    For clamping, I have found back-taping (sticky out) with electrical tape works very well.
    Bob

    Team 45-70 #635
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  7. #7
    Tenderfoot
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    I have always used Devon 2 ton clear epoxy which is very similar to acraglas but has a 30 minute work window. Course I work on a lot of military rifles, so I am used to cleaning the living daylights from an area to remove all traces of oil before making a repair.

    For clamping I use traditional wood clamps and little c clamps. The clamps are padded using blocks of wood that are sometimes made on a case by case bases due to the odd clamping angle sometimes on different items. For real small pieces and dutchman repairs I use blue painters tape which is more than sufficient at providing enough clamping force on the piece drying. For things like handguards and buttstock toes I use wax coated cord to hog tie a repair shut until it dries. The wax keeps it from permanantly adhering to the wood.

    I've done it all, stocks broke in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 pieces or more. Complete refinishes, pure tung oil finishes, high gloss tru oil finishes, BLO, air brushed shellac, Some brand new guns, some 160 years old. Toes, combes, duffle cut forends, wrist repairs, side cracks, tang cracks, nose repairs, dutchmans and complete re-graph jobs of missing pieces. I also do bed and inlet work.
    Last edited by Wind; 07-20-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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  8. #8
    Tenderfoot
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    Electrical tape would work just as good too, I do not pretend for one minute to bash others ideas. I guess through the years I have just found what works and what doesn't, what's appropriate and what's not. As my friend used to say, many ways to skin a cat and there is no "wrong" way.
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  9. #9
    Gun Wizard
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    How do you get the Devon 2 ton clear epoxy down into the crack? In my experience, epoxy is very "thick".
    Team 30-30 #37
    Team 32 special #1
    Team 35 #371
    Team Old Pharts #100
    Team 356 Win ? http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/te...eam-356-a.html

    Minnesota Marlin Owners, join the "club".

    click here
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    Pray for Obama. Psalm 109:8

    "The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference - they deserve a place of honor with all that's good". George Washington

  10. #10
    Tenderfoot
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    The stuff I use has a consistency of hot maple syrup, it flows very well. Depending on the severity of the crack, just spreading it onto the seam and hoping it works it's way in almost never works unless you can flex it open to around 1/8 of an inch and can keep flexing it to work the resin down into the seam.

    Most of the time you need to drill down into the crack going as parallel as possible with the seam of the break. The crack must be clamped when you are doing this or else the wood shavings get pushed in between the break and then you are not able to clamp the stock shut anymore, making for an ugly seam. If you manage to drill down to just the right length and angle without busting all the way through the stock, it needs to then be filled with denatured alcohol and washed out to remove any oil (if present, most "new" guns have nice clean wood). After that dries, you can fill the hole with resin and use a tight fitting dowel to push the resin into the crack like a hydraulic push rod. After all this you need to dress the repair up and re-stain and refinish the affected area to hide the work. Most of the repair work I do is blind work and can only occasionally be barely visible.

    Why don't you post up a picture of the damage?


    Tom
    Last edited by Wind; 07-20-2012 at 10:04 PM.
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