I've got two cracked lever gun stocks. Both are cracked at the tang (shipping damage in both cases) and the damage is very similar on both. The crack does not go all the way through and is fairly difficult to spread apart at all.
I would like to use a syringe type injector to get down into the crack without having to open it up any more than necessary. I'm thinking about using Titebond III glue, but am not sure if it is thin enough to inject thru a needle? Will Devcon2 inject through a needle?
Has anyone ever tried this method?
This one is the worse of the two
Im by no means a gunsmith even a BAD one lol but shouldnt you replace the stock? What caused the crack and would it run farther then what you can see ? Would hate for something bad to happen
There are two stocks, both broken from shipping damage. Neither one would be easily replaced, one is from a Glenfield 30GT the other from a Western Field (Marlin) 740A. Other Marlin stocks will fit, but won't match.
Here's how I would do it. First carefully apply Johnson's paste wax on the outside right up to the edge of the crack, this keeps any epoxy from sticking to the outside of the stock. I use the liquid Acraglas from Brownells. Mix up a small amount and use a toothpick to apply to the crack. For the tighter part of the crack use the flame of a lighter lightly applied to the epoxy, at this stage the heat will cause the epoxy to thin and run down into the crack. When you're satistied that enough has entered the crack, bind tightly with a rubber strip cut from an inner tube, I use rubber from a bicycle tube, more stretchy. Allow to cure for 24hrs, then upwrap and carefully clean away the excess that will have oozed back out of the crack. The wood will be stronger than new. I have repaired many this way, never had any problems. Goatwhiskers the Elder
Incidentally, the repair done in this way will be virtually invisible, the Acraglas turns a brownish tinge and with the crack being so tightly squeezed pretty much doesn't show at all. Good luck.
I didn't believe it until I saw it, but the model airplane guys are using super glue to put wooden models together.
The stuff is thin as water, runs into cracks and joints easily, is absorbed into the wood so it not only glues the joint but strengthens the wood around it too.
And it drys really fast. I've seen ten year old models flying that were built with it and it's not coming apart.
Yes, I know... things move pretty slow in the gun world and new ideas are not introduced easily...
Try it. Break a piece of scrap wood and glue it back with superglue. Then keep it for a while and beat on it.
See if it isn't the best glue repair you ever saw.
I haven't repaired a gun stock with it yet, but I did it to a wooden hammer handle and it's hanging in there like a champ.
I think it will prove to be the absolute best way to do it on a broken gun stock.
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I repaired the less damaged of the two stocks this morning, using a 2 part expoxy. Waxed the finsh area like suggest above, thanks for that! Drilled a couple of small holes in the stock, they won't show when the stock is assembled. The holes intersect the crack. Then used dowel rod just slightly smaller than these holes to "pump" the epoxy down into the holes and out into the crack. Clamped everything together and am not going to mess with it until tomorrow.
This method won't work on the other stock. Titebond makes a wood specific superglue that I may try. And it's available in different viscosities, so it should flow into the crack well. It will be worth a try.
I think the coolest part about the super glue idea is that the glue is actually absorbed into the grain of the wood.
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