New to forum I am restoring mod 122 .The barrel had deep pitting at the end had to file them out was able to keep barrel round with 120 emery paper going to refinish with blue wonder how fine should I go with wet sand paper.Pictures to come
Good luck with the Blue Wonder. I sure didn't like it.
For sure don't go past 400. You start getting the "White" too polished and the blue has a hard time penetrating. They will take the application. It will take more applications to get the color you want though. I did have one once that I stopped and roughed it up a bit Because it just wouldn't go dark.
That makes sense no groves for bluing to settle in I think I will stop at 400 thanks.
My experience, and some that I observed, with Blue Wonder included a lot of after-blue rust.
I would suggest that you drench your parts with oil and keep them wet for a week. That helps wick the moisture away from bluing.
I do that with most of my bluing projects now.
I like idea of keeping parts wet I put a lot of time in to get rid of rust:ever little bit of info helps
I find getting a good finish to a point is good. Get rid of the rust, then have it blasted with baby sand (fine) it leaves a matte finish that takes cold blue easily and no off coloring. Shiny is okay on a mirror in my opine but for a rifle I shy away from it.
God Bless Our Troops -- Retired Tool & Die Maker -- The center of an Aspirin is the same size as the center of the moon, aim for the center.
Without digging that thread back up, could you tell me more about bleaching the stock? You left a gun stock immersed in a water bleach solution for 24 hours or so? It turned out great but that scares the heck out of me!
1894 .32-20 Octagon 30" - 1907-ish (Team 1894 #332)
Model 55 "The Original Goose Gun" 12GA (Team Shotgun #9)
795, 7000, Model 60. 989 M2 22LR (Team 60 #171)
Model 25MN 22 WMR (Team 22 Magnum #085)
39A Golden '64 22LR (Team 39 #384)
Model 81 and 80DL 22LR (Team Bolt Action Rimfire #48 )
... and the rest
I copy and paste so you don't have to read the whole thing again.
the stock still had some deep stain needed to be either streamed off or bleached. I decided to used 1 part bleach to 2 part water and left the stock inside a storage container I had. It fit perfect, and all I had to do was place a round stainless steel bar to hold down the stock since it was floating on top of the solution.
The next day I removed the stock and it look great except towards the butt of the stock since it still had some small dark stain color, I increased the bleach to 2 parts and equal the solution. I left the stock soaking in the solution for about half the day, removed the stock, it look great and let it dry for about 1-1/2 weeks, (I wanted to make sure it was completely dry).
I then applied one coat using a pre stain wood conditioner with a cotton cloth as per instruction. It looked good until I started to use the MinWax stain, “Early American”, which gave multi-spots of stains on stock.. I didn’t want to stain it as original which was the dark Walnut color; I wanted to go lighter and something different. So I went back to lightly sanding the stock to even the color stain. After that I apply 6 more coats of the Early American stain. I applied all with one light stoke coat since I didn’t want to soak the stock with stain. After each coat of stain I let it dry 24 hrs, and then used 0000 steel wool between each coat.
I decided to not to use tru oil, or boiled linseed oil and went with Formby’s Tung Oil Finish low gloss. This finish reminds me of another product that I like and used which was Marine Rubbed Effect vanish.
I applied 7 coats Formby’s Tung Oil Finish low gloss waited 24 hrs to dry and with each coat I then lightly sanded with 0000 steel wool.
The last coat I sanded lightly with the 0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss even though the product is listed as low gloss, and now the finished product looks great to me.