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Thread: Removing the primer pocket crimp on military brass



  1. #11
    RNG
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    Tenderfoot
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    I use the RCBS version of these for large and small. Just chuck the small bit up in a battery operated drill.

    Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Heads Large 390751 FREE S&H 390751. Hornady Gunsmithing and Reloading Equipment.

    Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool Large

  2. #12
    Gunfighter
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    The cheapest way to remove the crimp is:
    Lee Chamfer Deburring Tool
    Slow, but works.
    M.
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    We need to support the rights of owners of "assualt rifles" and "high capacity magazines"
    Otherwise our guns WILL be next!
    The Henry 44 lever action rifle (16 rounds) The "assualt rifle" of the Civil war.
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    DO EVERYTHING YOU CAN TO OPPOSE THE OBAMA GUN LAWS!

  3. #13
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    Reaming (chamfering) vs swaging is a debated subject. Reaming seams easier. Swaging returns the primer pocket as closely as possible to original dimensions without removing metal. When a primer is crimped the metal around the primer pocked is upset to form a 'retention ring' around the primer. This process can induce stresses into the case head and if done improperly by the arsenal can result in failure of the case upon firing. Hatcher discusses this problem in his notebook, A slightly off center arsenal swage of the primer resulted in case failures where a wedge of brass blew out extending from the primer pocket to the edge of the brass and in to the chamber resulting in blown up guns. My shooting partner in the position to my left was shooting 7.62 NATO reloads when a strange violent report came from his Steyr SSG. The magazine blew out the bottom, scope turret blown off the side of the scope and blood from my partner's face around his safety glasses was flowing. An overload was my first guess, however he was using a powder that made that scenario doubtful. A post mortum showed that many of his Viet-Nam era brass once fired (probably M60 fired) had off center primer crimps described exactly as Hatcher noted. What was left of the errant casing displayed off center arsenal crimps as well. I now inspect all my casings for an off center crimp and swage them back into conformance prior to seating primers. I fortunately have not experienced what my partner went through and have become more enlightened to the imperfections of man and what he builds. AC

  4. #14
    Deadeye
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    Lot of that automatic weapon fired brass around here I do not reload them, .223 is not that expensive and the potential for troubles keep me away from useing them. If I was going to reload military brass the best tools for the job be the route to go and a careful workup of the brass and load used. Can never be to safe with ammunition and firearms the margin for error is small.

  5. #15
    Deadeye
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    I use an RCBS Chamfer and Deburring tool.

    A couple quick turns of the tool remove all traces of the crimp that might interfere with primer seating, but it doesn't remove excess metal like some of the reamers available.

    I'm not a fan of work-hardening case heads any more than they are when they leave the factory. Even though primer pocket swaging tools work the brass as little as possible, it's still another step toward failure.

  6. #16
    Deadeye
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80hp View Post
    The cheapest way to remove the crimp is:
    Lee Chamfer Deburring Tool
    Slow, but works.
    M.
    This IS the easiest and cheapest way. Once you get a feel for the amount of pressure needed, then the method is VERY quick.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that "If it bleeds, I can kill it"

  7. #17
    Sidewinder
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    Another vote for CH4D's kit. I prefer to swage over removing metal. For no other purpose then there is no shavings to clean up at the end. If you process high volumes often then the Dillon swage tool is the way to go.


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