Never had a problem with problem with the collet FCD and cast bullets, crimp groove or no crimp groove. In fact, I recommend that die. I do not recommend the Carbide Factory Crimp die (pistol cartridges) for cast bullets. I shoot 15K to 20K cast bullets a year.
To each his own.
Just didn't know if they were ok for my marlin 336. I just started shooting guns and reloading with a
lyman tmax kit. Its alot of fun. Looking to start deer hunting this year for the first time.
Just want to say thanks for asking the question and thanks to the people who took the time to answer....
Welcome to the forum, Charlie. Lots of savvy shooters and reloaders here, feel free to ask your questions as they arise.
"The gun has been called the great equalizer, meaning that a small person with a gun is equal to a large person, but it is a great equalizer in another way, too. It insures that the people are the equal of their government whenever that government forgets that it is servant and not master of the governed." (Ronald Reagan)
Team 1894 #4
Team 45-70 #847
Charlie Hough, the 216 wins, 2,362 strikeouts, 3.75 era, knuckleballing, the first starting pitcher in Florida Marlins history Charlie Hough? You might want to go slow with those bullets unless you put a gas check on them. I like using Trail Boss when I shoot cast bullets without a gas check, and RL-7 when a gc is used. The Lyman T-mag is an awesome press, I've had mine for about a year now and I really like it.
Team 30-30 - Member #136
Marlin 336SS 30-30
Rossi Rio Grande 30-30
Henry H001 .22LR
Marlin 917V .17HMR
I bought 500 Laser-Cast from "Oregon Trail" a couple years ago. 165gr. FN. .310 Diameter, primarly for loading my .30-40 and .30-30.
had to "slow" them down for both cal. to get any accuracy at all. Anything below 1400 fps at the muzzel seems to work pretty well.
No problem penetrating a 4"X4" treated pine post at 50 yds.
Hey there Jech -- "Leading was atrocious and there was lead deposited on the outside of every case mouth". This makes me think that you have a severely fouled bore. Accuracy will never improve until you get it spotless again. A mix an match of copper jacketed and lead bullets compounds the issue. If it were me, I would go after the problem with two products. Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner for copper, and Lead-Away cloth by Kleen-Bore for the lead deposits.
I would pull the bolt and set the rifle up in an upside down position and give it a squirt with the Wipe-out. This keeps the gunk from flowing down into the action. Let it sit overnight. Run a patch and the tightest jag you can get to go down the barrel. The patch will probably come out purple. then start running some Lead-Away patches. These too should be as tight as you can get down the barrel. I'll be a couple of nickels you'll be seeing large lead shards stuck to the patch.
Run a bronze bore bristle brush with a patch soaked in Hoppe's wrapped around it - in and out a few times. Then the Lead-Away some more. You should be getting close to clean. A lot of folks make the mistake of equating shiny with clean. You should be able to feel the change as you run progressive patches down the barrel. There are any number of ways to deal with leading... this way has been proven very effective for me.
Go back to the 10 grains of Unique load and see if there is any improvement. Hope this helps. Best regards. Wind