Reloading primers/powders

[Darkker]

9Fingers gets the door prize!
The last test I read about it, showed a comparison of one brand(don't recall whom) of mag Vs. standard. The Magnum's output looked like a shotgun pattern, as far as output duration, rise to output pressure, and temp.
The standard primer was startlingly consistent.

Again, if it makes you happy, and you are satisfied with your set-up; GREAT!! But there is no need for a mag primer, on the basis of WHY they were invented; for what MOST of us are going to be shooting.

[dragon813gt]

You most certainly need a magnum primer to light off a fine ball powder like H110/W296. They exist for a reason and are needed for certain powders.

[44-40 Willy]

I tend to use CCI or Winchester as that's mostly what I seem to be able to find when I'm on a primer buying spree. Matter of fact, I don't recall ever having used Remington or Federal primers as I've never found them. Lee seemed to have some issues with Federal primers in their hand priming tools some years ago. I don't know as they've ever gotten that straightened out.

[Darkker]

I tend to use CCI or Winchester as that's mostly what I seem to be able to find when I'm on a primer buying spree. Matter of fact, I don't recall ever having used Remington or Federal primers as I've never found them. Lee seemed to have some issues with Federal primers in their hand priming tools some years ago. I don't know as they've ever gotten that straightened out.

Lee warns against using primers that are if the "Basic type" primer compound, because they are much less stable; and COULD be set-off by the jostling in the primer tray.

You most certainly need a magnum primer to light off a fine ball powder like H110/W296. They exist for a reason and are needed for certain powders.

Going back to WHY they were invented. If you have an OLD ball powder(early deterant coatings made ignition difficult) that has very POOR case fill, or it is very cold. Then, and especially in the case of a pistol with that powder, Yes a magnum primer can be helpful.

But to say that 110/296 NEEDS a mag primer, is incorrect without more information. When your case fill is down near 20% or less, I grant you, it's tough to light. But that isn't a case fill % that applies to more than about 1% of any loading situations.

It's Helpful to be clear about specific situations, rather than general blanket statements.

[adamc]

Is that why LEE recommends only CCI primers ?

All other brands require that you buy an "explosion" shield fro their presses

[msharley]

Is that why LEE recommends only CCI primers ?

All other brands require that you buy an "explosion" shield fro their presses

Hey Adam,

On Federal primers: Have loaded a quite a few, found the Federal 210 to give the most consistent chronograph readings, IN MY RIFLES, YMMV.

Federal primers are best for double action revolvers, and Glocks with trigger jobs. Go bang every time.

Now for the negative, as I load all my ammo on progressive machines, it seems a though the priming compound "migrates" out of the primer cup. Blew up one Dillon 650 magazine, twice (will swear the second time was from static electricity).

Solution, use a .17cal jag to clean magazine tube, and primer mechanism every so often. One will notice the "green" priming compound on the patch.

Have yet to blow up either of the 550's or the 1050.

I use WLP for the 1911 ammo, and WLR for M-1 ammo. Easier to orient in the flip tray, and less apt to "double" in the M-1.

Later, Mark