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Thread: M1 garand wo'nt cycle.



  1. #1
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    M1 garand wo'nt cycle.

    My friend has a old M1 Garand and we went to the range to sight in but the M1 G. wouldn't cycle. Assuming it is together right what would the reason be?
    It easily cycle manually but my thoughts is cause a part that screws down the cylinder stops short of 1/2 at 12'O clock and backing 1/2 turn to 6'O clock and you tighten up the cylinder plug screw through the front sight and now screwed to the cylinder, it's loose. Can gases be escaping?
    What would cause gas to escape and not push the rod back to cycle?

    T NY
    My Avatar is my brother John who left me to soon. He was 10 Y/O 1 month older than me. He took me off the Streets of Brooklyn taught me how to handle a rifle and to hunt. For his attention I would always be grateful. Rest in Peace Brother John.

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    Deadeye
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    I don't own one myself but my friend does and he told me you have to either have the old 30-06 loads or custom loads for the M1 Garand. Apparently the new stuff is too hot for it and can bend internal components.
    308/338 likes this.
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    My guess is to check the port at the end of the barrell. Make sure it is clear of carbon and powder. The gases are pushed through this hole as the bullet leaves the barrell, cycling the action. The gas cylinder on my M1 does the same for tightening as you described for yours. It could very well be thast your friends M1 needs a serious cleaning and lube job.

    Andrew
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    Deadeye
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    M1 Garand Manual

    www.springfield-armory.com/download.php?asset=m1garand... They are finicky about ammo, cleaning and proper lube.

  5. #5
    DWB
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    Sounds to me like the gas cylinder plug screw threads are boogered up (or the female threads on the gas sylinder itself). The cylinder plug screw should screw in so the flange is flush with the lip on the front sight band. It isn't uncommon for the gas cylinder to still be somewhat loose on some individual rifles, but this can be caused by several factors, including the front handguard wood and hardware, the threaded portion of the barrel that the front sight band screws onto (those threads can get boogered pretty easily also), or the front sight band isn't turned and indexed as completely as possible.

    First, disassemble the Garand for field strip and cleaning. Then remove the gas cylinder plug screw - - lefty loosey, ya' know. Then unscrew the front sight band - - lefty loosey again. Then gently drift the gas cylinder off the barrel - - use a piece of wood if it feels stubborn, just make sure to drift it off straight to avoid damaging the three keyways machined into the barrel. Then use some good powder solvent to verify the cleanliness of the gas port, the bore of the gas cylinder, the keyways on the barrel, the threads on the barrel, the threads on the front sight band, and the threads on the gas cylinder plug screw. While you're at it, make sure to clean the fouling from the stainless portion (the flat front of the gas cyl. plug screw). Then reassemble things in the reverse order. The front sight band might go on a bit further but don't force it around just to get it indexed with the gas cylinder. You can try drifting the gas cylinder onto the barrel a fuzz further, but do so at your own risk, otherwise you can easily damage the key ways by getting western on it... If the gas cylinder plug screw doesn't screw in far enough for the flange to mate up to the front of the lower portion of the front sight band, pull it back out and double check the male threads on the plug screw and the female threads in the front sight band for boogers.

    If all that fails to help, then I reckon your buddy will need to get some parts on order or take it to a good smith or machinist to clean the thread up some.
    308/338 and nervousmini like this.

  6. #6
    Sidewinder
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    Sounds like a detail strip and inspection is in order. The gas cylinder lock frequently doesn't line up perfectly when you snug it down on the gas cylinder. You simply unscrew it enough to line up the lock with the gas cylinder and screw the plug in. This will draw the gas cylinder toward the end of the rifle a bit, but it's perfectly normal. Have a look through these links to help diagnose the problem.
    M1 Garand (Failure to Cycle)
    M1 Garand (How to Strip your Rifle)
    Inspecting your M1 Garand
    M1 Garand (Lubrication)
    M1 Garand - Nomenclature & Accessories & Maintenance
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    Thanks I'll sure tell my friend of these interesting points. But the the rifle is clean and so is the gas port "hole" I'm aware of the ammo having to be a factor in the operation to cycle the action on a M1 Garand, but my friend isn't.

    He had a few unopened boxes of military ammo but I was not familiar with it label.

    HDY.'s #8 manual has a section for M1 Grand and I remember reading other articles of the proper ammo and reloading recipes specifically for the operation of the M1 Garand.

    I believe I have on hand what will work in a M1 G. " 165 gr, bullets - H4895 - WLR - military brass But it's up to my friend if he wants to go at it.

    Thank again and I'm still open for more suggestion.

    T NY
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    My Avatar is my brother John who left me to soon. He was 10 Y/O 1 month older than me. He took me off the Streets of Brooklyn taught me how to handle a rifle and to hunt. For his attention I would always be grateful. Rest in Peace Brother John.

  8. #8
    Tinhorn
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    Take it apart, clean, lubricate and reassemble. Do a 'tilt test' to see if the op rod binds. Some of those old Garands have had a lot of rounds through them and parts do wear out. Op rod tips can get worn down and gas cylinders can become enlarged. A loose fit will allow too much gas to escape. Also, check to see if the gas port in the barrel is aligned with the opening on the gas cylinder.

    Good luck
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    A worn piston head on the end of the op-rod can leak gas, it's forward edge should also be sharp. If the gas plug has a grenade relief valve (the plug made for a big phillip's head) has crud under it's seat or if its cracked that can cause short stroking. If your not going to be launching grenades I'd suggest getting a solid plug. AC

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    Quote Originally Posted by 308/338 View Post
    Thanks I'll sure tell my friend of these interesting points. But the the rifle is clean and so is the gas port "hole" I'm aware of the ammo having to be a factor in the operation to cycle the action on a M1 Garand, but my friend isn't.

    He had a few unopened boxes of military ammo but I was not familiar with it label.

    HDY.'s #8 manual has a section for M1 Grand and I remember reading other articles of the proper ammo and reloading recipes specifically for the operation of the M1 Garand.

    I believe I have on hand what will work in a M1 G. " 165 gr, bullets - H4895 - WLR - military brass But it's up to my friend if he wants to go at it.

    Thank again and I'm still open for more suggestion.

    T NY
    Hey Tony,

    An important thing to remember with the M-1, is to clean it "upside down". That is with the sights down, so that solvent does not get into the gas port.

    You can bring this back to life easily. Unscrew the gas plug, make sure the port in the barrel is lined up with the port in the gas tube. With the bolt back, fill up the gas cylinder with "smoke" from an acetylene torch. This will "carbon" up the piston tip, and the gas tube.

    Then, do not clean the gas system again, until getting a new piston and gas tube.

    Later, Mark
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