Stripped hex takedown screw

[bive]

I was going to free float the barrel of my XL7 (270 win) since the front-end of the stock is slightly warped.
Got the proper hex key and loosened the back screw without any problems but the one in the front wouldn't move. Applied some more force but that only made the hex rounder and rounder.

I've tried a lot of things, tapping in a torx-key slightly larger than then now almost round hex-head, cutting a new groove with a dremel (tricky since the screw is counter-sunk into the stock and I don't want to damage the stock) and superglueing a torx-bit to the screw.
None of this has worked...

Next step is trying JB-weld a torx-bit into the head and if that doesn't work I'll have to drill it out...

The distributor of XL-guns in Sweden is a small company (one man company) and I can't get in touch with him...
Do you know if Marlin will send a replacement screw to Sweden or do I have to contact the official distributor?

It's virtually impossible to find a replacement screw with the proper dimension here in Sweden since we use metric-screws and different TPI's.

The gun shoots quite well for the first 2 rounds (just under 1"), but rounds 3-5 is off 2-5 inches. I don't feel comfortable using the gun for hunting since I can't rely on it if there is a need for several shots. And the elk season is just a few weeks away...

If anyone have any more ideas on how to get the screw out I'll be happy to try them out.

[Hakkapeliitta]

I've had similar problem with my Sako... I just let the local gunsmith remove the screw and install a new one... cost me just about 10 eur

[bive]

I've had similar problem with my Sako... I just let the local gunsmith remove the screw and install a new one... cost me just about 10 eur

That's probably the best thing to do, but the local ones have the same problem as I do, virtually impossible to find a replacement in Sweden. And none of them have appropriate tools to make one. They will have to cut a metric thread and they are fully booked until mid October :/.

I've planned to let a gunsmith bed the stock during the winter (too cold to hunt...), maybe I'll have to wait to get it fixed until then...

[donut slayer]

If its already rounded out, you may have no choice but to drill off the head of the screw. If you cant find a screw local, I dont see why you couldnt order one from the factory or get someone in the states to send ya one.

[OLBIKER]

That's probably the best thing to do, but the local ones have the same problem as I do, virtually impossible to find a replacement in Sweden. And none of them have appropriate tools to make one. They will have to cut a metric thread and they are fully booked until mid October :/.

I've planned to let a gunsmith bed the stock during the winter (too cold to hunt...), maybe I'll have to wait to get it fixed until then...

Buy a left handed drill bit.make sure the bit is hardened or high speed.Just using this in reverse should back the Screw out.If you want I can mail you a screw,Pm your mailing info to me.OlBIKER

[jayd4wg]

you guys are skinning this cat the hard way. I took a cutoff wheel to both screw heads the day i got the rifle home. I can't stand hex screws in the field when imight have to take the rifle apart. the only tool i carry with me is my trusty SWAK Tinker. slot the head and you can use any standard flat head screwdriver to pull it. the stainless screws took the slot easily and i've never turned back.

[chrismc]

I had the same issue and cut a slot (Dremel)and used a slot screwdriver - the slot was cut NOT with a wheel disc, but with a drill bit thingy that looks like a small rotozip bit, actually carved the slot so as not to dameage the stock - get the biggest slot screwdriver for the job, dont use too small or you will ruin your work! It ruined the bit, but it got the screw out.... I then replaced it with a button head ss hex which was 1/4x28....funny it was standard and not metric....I bought a whole whack of button head ss 1/4x28 in lengths from 3/4" to 2" lengths and swithched a couple of my guns over to them -

Also, you could easily drill it until the head falls off (use the stripped hole for a guide) and then the stock will come off allowing you to use vise grips on the threaded shank.
good luck!

[jayd4wg]

drill and vice grip...another good way to do the job. my slot serves me well though...will leave it alone for now

[bive]

Thanks for all suggestions!

I will visit a guy who claims he can fix it without drilling the screw out. I've also found a gunsmith that claims he has screws that will fit.

I'll keep you posted on the progress.

[bive]

Time for an update

Screw removed, with a dremel (cut off the head). New one found at another dealer that took one from one of the rifles they had in stock.

Freefloated the barrel by removing the pressure pads and sanding away some material on the left side that were touching the barrel.
Loaded some 140 grains A-frame (52 gr Norma 204, federal 215 primers) and visited the range.

What a difference! Shot 3 shots within 0.975" with support only by hand on the bench. Now I'm ready for one week of hunting

I still have problems when I mount a bipod, so I need to remove some more from the stock and perhaps even strengthen it somewhat (by epoxying some aluminum rods perhaps?). If I grip the stock by hand in the front it twists very easy. If I hold further back where the stock is thicker it works fine.