I use Connolly Hide Care for my leathers, be them shoes, jackets, holsters or scabbards. It is a lanolin waxy cream. If it is good enough for England's Royal Museums it's good enough for me. I also use Renaissance Wax Polish. The Renwax is great for Steel also.
This has been a great thread and I have certainly learnt a lot.
We have stuff called RENAPUR - which says on the label: Made from Natural Ingredients including Beeswax.
All I can say is that most of us in Australia take great care of our RM boots and this stuff doesn't change the color nor does it seem to weaken the leather.
Personally, looking at the quality of Lever's leather goods and I hope to indulge myself and purchase some of his goods, I will certainly take note of his advice regarding the maintenance and care of his work.
Last edited by Barra1; 12-01-2012 at 02:02 AM. Reason: Typo - again!
I didn't see it in the line up so I will throw it out there. I have used Leather Honey on my leather holsters for a few years now. It keeps them soft and supple and they show no signs of dry rotting.
Leather Conditioner | Leather Honey Since 1968
I use liquid mink oil. I never use anythin with silicone in it as it is not a natural substance that was in an animal. The idea behind the mink or neatsfoot is to put oils back in that were taken out durin the commercial tannin process. I read on leather care websites bout the detrimental facts of silicone and then saw it fer myself. I didn't book mark em so I can't quote em unfortunately. My boots threads seemed to rot and the leather dry rotted out real bad. I have used that SNO stuff and it does work. Just couldn't find it and liquid is so much easier to apply.
Lanolin... key ingredient in Ed's Red as well..
Neets foot oil is available at a more reasonable price at the local feed store/vet supply in gallon jugs.
If you gently emulsify a table spoon of lanolin in about 2x the amount of warm mineral spirits, then add it to a pint of neets foot oil it will stay in emulsion.
This mixture is among the best preservative/water repellants available for boots around... for BOOTS...NOT leather seats.
Salvaging old Marlins is not a past time ... It's a passion.
Mostly 1893 through 1959 Marlin levers, short carbines to long rifles.
Most models and variations in calibers
30/30, .308, .32, .35, .357, .45 Colt, 45/70 (a few)...
Cast and reload for 'em all, hunt year round.
Lanolin is just an old good stand by for leather. I should apply it to my stuff.
As I understand it, not all types of leather responds to the same types of treatment. You can use what ever of course but there are different solutions/greases/ sprays,what ever for the different type of leather products. Source.....google.
I`ve used Saddle soap for years. Shows you what I know.
The best part of the hunt is not the harvest but in the experience.
One of the better treatments I use for all my saddles is Lexol NF. It is better than the regular Lexol and not as sticky as Neatsfoot oil. One thing about Neastfoot oil is that unless the sticthing is nylon, it will eventually break down the old cotton stitching. The Lexol NF will not darken leather, every rough out.
The best boot leather treatment I have found is Obenauf's Heay Duty LP
Don't think I would use olive oil on my saddles since they could be leftout under a tarp at night and might invite critters to chew.
Does it turn rancid like regular Vegetable oil?
I'm not a fan of regular Lexol , but have had good luck with Lexol NF. It's not easy to find though.