I am planning to get a mercury recoil reducer for my GS. Mine has a solid stock (with no hole drilled in it). I have measured the width of the stock and see I will have less than 1/4" left on each side of the hole, so the hole is going to have to be drilled very accurately. I may wind up taking it to a gunsmith, but have been wanting an excuse to get a drill press and was wondering if any of you had drilled a hole like this. If so, how did you secure the stock so it didn't move?
I had my GS done for me by a gunsmith friend. I used one made by Breako. Brownells P/N 352-205-000. IMHO it works great and I would do it again in a heartbeat. You will like it a lot if you are shooting hot stuff.
1 .45-70 1895 LTD-V
1 .45-70 1895 GS
1 .410 Shotgun
1 .44 1894 Cowboy (24)
1 .357 1894 Cowboy (24)
1 .38 1894 CBC
1 .32 1894 Cowboy
1 .25-20 1894CL
And looking to add more!
I have not done it with a stock yet, but whenever I have to be accurate I drill at least three times enlarging the bit each time so there is less chance of it pulling off to any side. If I was concerned about accuracy I might do four or five different bits so there was no chance of a spit or other problems.
BOT GBUSA, Charter member team 444.
Life member NRA, Life member WAC.
How do the mercury recoil reducers work? How effective are they? Who sells a good one and how much are they?
aker of "Catfish Crack" punch bait
Howdy. I installed the big one (16 ounces), which was, I believe, 7/8" wide X 5" long. First I used a 1/4" regular drill bit, then used a 1" paddle bit. The paddle bit had a point that stayed in the hole already cut by the 1/4" bit. There never was any problem being off center since it was fairly easy to keep the 1/4" bit centered. I will say, though, that the walnut wood is HARD. If I was going to do it again, I'd again start w/ the small bit & then use an auger bit instead of the paddle bit; I went with the paddle bit to save money, but would spend a little more for the good bit. Once I got the hole done, I dropped in the recoil reducer & poured epoxy around it until the hole was full. I like the epoxy for two reasons: it holds the reducer very stable & it also enhances the strength of the stock (now with the 1" X 5" missing wood). Epoxy is pretty strong stuff.
As for how well the mercury reducer works...... wonderfully. I highly recommend them. Now I don't know if it's just the added weight (16oz in this case) or if the mercury does something too, but now I can shoot my Marlin GG all day long off the bench where before about 20 rounds was all I could handle.
Robert in the hills of NC
My 450 has mercury and I love it - like shooting a 44 mag.
My 45-70 does not, and I don't need it.
Don't know why the difference, as I've shot some hot loads in the 45-70, Garretts 420 +p loads - no problem.
I had a gunsmith do the work.
I've read in a few places about mercury recoil reducers and while I am interested I am also worried. The only draw back I can find to them is that they "gurgle" which I have a heard this in larger mercury bar systems. My question would be how loud is this? It might me muffled by epoxy but what about the hearing that an animal has? They still might be able to hear it. I'm still considering one though. I would assume that the "gurgle" would be louder the faster you moved the gun up and down, and in a hunting situation if speed is needed the jig is already up. Slowly moved and it probably won't be heard. Can you guys hears yours move?
If I shake the rifle really hard & listen very closely, I can hear the "gurgling", but it is not an issue at all since it's so quiet. I don't even think an animal could hear it.
To make these recoil reducer effective, don't they have to be installed and level with the bore?
If I remember the written directions correctly, it said it could be installed either parallel with the bore or parallel with the lower edge of the stock. Mine is more in line with the lower edge of the stock & it works fine.