







After taking the .444 out this past weekend, I decided it need a thorough cleaning. No big deal...
Stripped 'er down, cleaned things really nicely, removed all the copper fouling (after about 150 rounds, in two or three sessions since the last time I bothered removing the copper fouling) that I could, and re-assembled. Figured I would double check the miscellaneous screws and make sure they were all still snug - fore-end cap screws, magazine tube screw, load gate spring screw...
Got to the load gate spring screw and no more than put the blade in the slot and she popped. It wasn't loose, and I didn't apply any torque, and my screw driver set is made for firearms, and she popped. Needless to say, I was bummed.
Good news is that we have a wonderfully well stocked firearms parts store on the other side of town and $3.18 (with tax) later, I have a new screw. Will be removing any traces of oil from the threaded areas, fetching out the blue loctite, and re-installing things tonight, and hopefully be dry-firing before dark.
Short story is, be careful with those little rascals. There isn't much to them, and mine exhibited indications of work hardening with about a 50% fracture and the balance just letting go. I am glad it didn't happen in the field, and thank goodness for a good local supplier.
Sometimes, the ride just ain't worth the barb wire and the mud... DWB
Mine broke the other day, replaced mine from Brownells.
Matt







Proper torque for the loading gate screw – “Tight as it will go and 2 more turns”.![]()
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The blue loctite works as does nail polish.
Danny








I think your are shinin' me, but "2 more turns" - - Holy broken screws, Batman. I used my blue loctite and went snug with it. But if Rowdy tells me to go two more turns, well... Rowdy has never steered me wrong before.Originally Posted by Rowdy
Sometimes, the ride just ain't worth the barb wire and the mud... DWB







Just out of school – I went to work for a GSA contractor working heavy equipment. We were repairing a forklift, when I asked him how tight to make a bolt.Originally Posted by DWB
His reply was – “As tight as it will go and 2 more turns”. Being young, I did as I was told – the bolt broke with a load BANG, old Elmer about died LHFAO…![]()
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Danny











I work with a couple guys who think every single bolt or screw they encounter has to be torqued to a gillion foot pounds. We have everything from tiny little 8-32 set screws to one inch bolts and if one of them touches it, you damn sure know it. I don't know how many broken screw heads, stripped hex heads, seized bolts, etc. I have dealt with in the past couple years.
Of course, they are convinced they are right. I tell them, I don't know why some engineer put a 3/4" bolt on a plate that is under zero pressure and never moves but just because it is there doesn't mean you have to torque it until your eye balls bleed. But they do and next thing you know we're using six foot cheater bars to snap the heads off and even when they are the ones having to do it, they just keep right on He-Manning them down.
As the area Lead I got sick of it and started swapping out a bunch of those 1/2" and 3/4" bolts for 3/8". We deal with extreme high heat too (like 1300F steel plates/bolts) so all ya gotta do is snug a bolt and in a few days of heating and cooling it will get tight as hell. So when you're trying to take off a blazing hot bolt to change out a heater with leather gloves cuz you need the dexterity and the damn thing is seized so tight you have to bust it off...GGGRRRR...!!!!
Farmer tight has it's place but goodness!
Um...I'm sorry...Did I go on a rant? Um...Sort of a pet peeve I guess...![]()
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Erik
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My boat crew does that with shackles, and we'll find out when everything is twisted into a knot and we're trying to get back to work while the tide is right. When I get to one they've torqued to hell and back I'll just toss them the wrench and say, "Call me when you're done." Gads, it is frustrating, but then there's a reason they're crew. Ever seen someone start a 5/8" bolt with a hammer ? Yup, got to tap it in first, y'see.








Hearing you guys mention applied torque on things at work could really get a thread going.
Sort of like the fellows that put enough torque on a bolt to rack the split-ring lock washers, lock washers vibrate out, bolt gets loose, wear on parts/plates/joints... Repair damage as needed, replace the Grade 5 that "didn't hold" with a Grade 8, then really crank the crapolla out of things. Seems like some have never thought of using star-locks (internal or external, take your pick), and if you mention it, they look at you like Forrest Gump. But they will get double-jointed elbows, shoulders, and wrists into a tight spot to double nut.
Gotta love the new guys on the screw-pin shackles - - I always make sure to tell them to run it in all the way, then back out a 1/4 turn. Most of them will ask why? Some of them will do as told. One out of 20 will try to argue about it, so I tell them to run it in tight and see what happens after the pick on a load. Then just sit back and have a cup while they beat it loose.
Sometimes, the ride just ain't worth the barb wire and the mud... DWB







My loading gate screw broke a couple weeks ago too...it broke as I was taking it out, musta been too tight from the factory.
Also broke the mag tube screw (that one was all my fault)...replaced both from Brownells. The screws and tube hanger are at home, if i could ever get there to put my gun back together.