Any thing special about silver soldering on a front sight? I have had plenty of experience welding/brazing TIG and gas welding but really have not done much soldering Iím assuming that the barrel is cleaned and brought to bear metal solder is place between the sight and barrel and held in the correct orientation and the heat is applied so the solder will melt and bond the two pieces together? When doing this are you aplying heat to the joint or trying to heat up the part to the temperature of the solders melting point? What works best the wire/strips of silver solder and flux or the paste? I have some of the 1100 degree solder paste from Brownells would this be good to use for a Ruger Blackhawk sight or should I get something with a cooler soldering temp? Iím debating two options on this front sight and am just trying to figure out what way I should go
Two ways to do it, tin and sweat, or prep and use thin sheets precut and sweat on. Lots of care must be taken to insure it being level and in line.
Many different grades of silver solder at varying temps most all will work and not damage bbl steel.
God Bless Our Troops -- Retired Tool & Die Maker -- The center of an Aspirin is the same size as the center of the moon, aim for the center.
Hi swany,Originally Posted by swany
Is the front site on the Blackhawk already installed with silver solder?
I did some research on silver soldering a few years ago. I remember that silver solder can come undone when the product is Hot Salt Blued. Belgiun Blue and that type is used on Doubles because of the silver used to join the barrels.
So if we use silver to solder a site, does that change how it would have to be blued?
This whole comment is meant to be a question. I'm not sure if I'm remembering my stuff correctly.
I believe you might have it backwards about the shotgun barrels. The silver solder is the good stuff. The old lead/tin solder is the stuff that comes apart when hot blueing. I had it happen to an old A. H. Fox 12 gauge of mine. The gunsmith was supposed to be a heck of a rifle guy but evidently he didn't know about old double guns. Anyway, the silver solder has a much higher melting point than the lead. The lead solder is another reason I've always been told not to use solvents like Hoppes #9 on the outside of old shotgun barrels as it is a lead solvent. I did it for years before I ever heard of that but never had any trouble. Of course, I always just wiped it on then back off for cleaning and didn't leave it wet.
But back to the sight, I'd be interested in details of how to do it also as I have a Mauser .22 that needs its front sight soldered back on. My plan was to simply put it in place with a hose clamp over the ramp and go shoot the rifle to check for left and right deviations and adjust by tapping the front side to side and when it's shooting perfect, solder it on right there. The sheet solder and already have it in place. Either that or get it positioned then mark the edges with a fine scribe so I can remove it and put it back exactly. I doubt the line would show afterwords but if it did, a tiny blueing touch up should take care of it.
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