Just purchase a beautiful 1904 Swedish M96 Mauser. Is just about perfect with the exception that someone refinished the stock and put a coat or two of some sort of clear coat/polyurethane on the stock. Am not going to mess with it just yet but want to remove over the winter. What would be the best way to do this and what steps should I then follow to refinish using Tung oil?
For stripping finish off stocks I use Citristrip. Available at hardware stores. This is first stuff that I found that will strip the hard finish that Remington And Browning use.Hope this helped. Riflerick
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You can strip it with any commercially available stripper. I use JASCO PREMIUM PAINT & EPOXY REMOVER - it is potent stuff, wear gloves, eye protection and have plenty of ventilation.
Once it is stripped sand it to at least 320 grit. I usually raise the grain with every grit change but you should do it at least twice. Once it is sanded you can fill the pores by either wet sanding with thinned finish or build up finish and sand back. If you don't care about the pores being open, skip this step. If you want to stain it, now is the time. Use a non-grain raising stain like Behlen Solar-Lux or Laurel Mountain Forge stain. You can then finish over the stain with whatever finish you prefer - Tung Oil, Tru-Oil or whatever commercial finish you are most comfortable with.
If you choose to use Pure Tung Oil (there is a difference from the "Tung Oil finishes" that are available in the hardware store) - use the following procedure. Thin the Tung Oil 50-50 with mineral spirits. Apply a devil-may-care thick coat and let it penetrate for 1/2 hour. Now wipe off all of the excess with an old t-shirt. TRY to wipe it all off, you'll be leaving a microscopic coat on the wood. Do this once a day until you are satisfied with the finish. A light rub out with pumice or a fine rubbing compound will even out the final coat.
Best regards, Dan
Thanks for the insight. Chose to post this question here instead of a military website because I learned that you all on the Marlin sight really know what you are talking about and are passionate about your firearms as I am. Again, thanks for your input.
Dan is in the business of stock work and absolutely knows his stuff. He is a man to listen to!
I will second Riflerick's recommendation of Citristrip. You can buy it in a gel or spray on. I've actually had good luck with the spray on, I wasn't sure what to expect but ti worked well.
The nice thing about Citristrip is it is not so harsh as other strippers so it's a little more "user friendly."
It will pull stain out so that is something to be aware of.
I'm a big fan of Tru Oil, but if you want to keep a more authentic military oiled look, I would probably go the pure tung oil route. As Dan said, that is not what you get at your local hardware store. An internet search will turn up suppliers.
Picked up some Citristrip from the local HD and first tried it on an Enfield stock that I have which has some poly on it, and it worked great. Then applied some Citristrip on a small patch on the M96 stock that I want to strip and it worked great. Will proceed to dismantle rifle and strip the wood, will refinish with Tung oil.
Thanks all for your input!
Dan,,,,,have you ever used Lacquer thinner? I use it on my Marlin with no problems.
I used Linseed oil after that. I like the dull finish.
Only when I'm working with lacquer! Did you find that it stripped the Marlin finish?
Yes Sir,,with no problem. I dont like strippers of any kind.
I wet some cotton rags with it and let it set on the wood for a few min and it came right off. It might take two to three times to get it all off. I set it in the hot sun for about an hour after that to let it purge.
I sanded it with 320 real good, wiped it down with acetone, and let it dry.
I then soaked it with linseed oil, let it set for a few and then wiped off. I did this three to four times and used the heat gun to help it soak into the wood.
Lacquer thinner will leave a residue, that's why I used acetone after it..................
Very interesting, thanks!