I have some time today and will post what I have on the trigger group teardown and the more important re-build. This will take a couple posts so please standby until I post all that I have.
For information only. Should only be done by a gunsmith. And like many things - it comes apart easier than it goes together.
Pardon my spelling and syntax - and I am not a great typist either....
Last edited by Mush; 05-22-2012 at 05:25 PM.
1- remove the retaining ring Part # 30 on the Marlin parts manual.
2- Place a pin (paper clip will do - I used a red handled punch in the picture) so the hammer strut spring will not go flying.
3. Release the hammer by holding the hammer with your thumb and gently press the trigger and slowly let the hammer move to the fired position to release the hammer pressure on the spring. The hammer strut will stop at the installed paper clip.
Keep the pin in the hammer spring strut and remove as a unit from trigger housing.(see next post).
Last edited by Mush; 05-22-2012 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Added step number 3.
3- remove the left hand side plate #54.
Now comes the part where springs start comming out. Go slow and do this in an area where you can find a spring when you drop it on the floor.
4 - SLOWLY remove the right side plate by gently prying front to back easing the plate out. watch the ramp spring #18 under the feed ramp # 17.
5 - Trigger parts will come out - do so one at a time so you can see how they come out.
6 - The Ejector pin is the only pin that is not on the side plate. The ejector and pin really does not need to come out. Part # 32 is the magazine (trigger) disconnector that causes trigger creap and keeps the trgger from moving when a magazine is not in the well.
7 - When you pull the safety out - there is a ball and a spring in the hole where the orange tooth pick is pointing.
8- All the parts (except the Magaizine Disconnector and Ejector) laid out for inventory and cleaning.
This was the easy part.
Do not use Bore cleaner or any harsh solvent or you could disolve the plastic parts. I used Hoppes #9 on the steel and Dishwashing soap and water on the plastic trigger housing. Make sure you dry the plastic parts and especially the holes where the springs go before reassembly.
A reminder what the trigger group looks like when you get it back together.
When I get a couple minutes I will post the reassembly with some tricks I use.
First step in re-build after cleaning -
Insert trigger and place trigger return spring on top of the aft part of the trigger. I use a machinist scribe but any pointed probe/pick/small screwdriver will do. I place my "pick" over the back pf the trigger Guard (part 61) and under the "U" of the trigger return spring (part 66) to pry up the return spring and slip the trigger under. have a "Temp" pin handy to hold the trigger in place after you get the return spring in place or the spring could move the trigger out of place. For the Temp pins I use medium finishing nails that I have cut off the pointy end and rounded it off some.
Last edited by Mush; 05-22-2012 at 05:28 PM.
In the above picture you see the sear spring (part 52) on top of the trigger. In another post it was suggested that there is a smaller end that goes in first. I need to check mine but I don't recall this in my rifle. I need to look again, will report when I can.
To get the sear (part 51) in you need to place the sear on top of the trigger and move it aft compressing the sear spring. I use a Temp pin and a small pin punch to work the sear back into place. This can go very fast or take several tries. Go slow and you will get it.
Last edited by Mush; 05-22-2012 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Spelling error.
Before I get too ahead of my self here is what you are going for to get all the parts in at the same time. The Right Side plate (part 53) with the pins attached will push out the Temp pins all at the same time.
The parts laid out in mostly the correct positions.