I went to the range with a 336 to see if it would shoot. It didn't. Best groups were about 5 inches at a hundred yards. Something is wrong, Marlins shoot better than that. So, I stripped the front end (mag, fore end, and hardware) off and shoot again.
One inch groups. Great but what is wrong? So the procedure is to add one part at a time until the culprit is found in order to correct it. so I started with the fore end and barrel band.
The fore end had been extremely tight and difficult to remove, as i expected when I re-installed the fore end the groups opened up again. Some wood removal was called for under the barrel band to make for a loose fit. I like to make them loose enough to easily slid on and off. The file and sandpaper accomplished that.
It look bad but a couple of coats of Tung oil makes it good as new and it will all be under the barrel band and not visible. Next is reassembly.
First, the fore end stock and fore end barrel band, then the front barrel band. I don't remove the front sight as some do, just rotate the band 180 degrees and slide it on and rotate back to normal position.
With the fore end on but slid forward and both bands in place slid the magazine (with spring inside) into place, almost........
The above photo shows assembly all in place almost, it's forward enough to insert the mag follower and the end of the mag spring into the follower.
Then move the mag tube to the rear and over the follower. It's much easier than trying to get it to go with the fore end moved back in place. When the mag tube is in place insert the screw in to the FRONT band to hold every thing. It is also a lot easier to install the magazine tube with the spring removed. Just remove the mag tube end cap and remove the spring. Newer Marlins have a larger screw that holds the front band in place and may require removal to remove the mag spring. I'm lazy, I disassemble/assemble with the spring in the tube.
Everything is back together and screws snug (not tight). I prefer to have everything on the loose side rather than tight. The fore end and mag tube should have a small amount of movement under light hand pressure.
Sorry if this is confusing, I'm a shooter not a writer. So it's off to the range to see if it shoots. A report on that when I return.
It will be interesting to see the results after your "fixes". keep us posted and good luck!
USN RET Team 35 member #33
This is not the first time I have seen this addressed. So what seems to be the problem is the barrel heating up and expanding . Then the front stock and band hold tight so the barrel slightly bows?
No matter your belief, you are fulfilling Bible Prophesy!
Jesus was either a Liar, a Lunatic, or Gods Word in the Flesh.
Marlin 336SS 30-30,
Marlin XL7 .25-06 Boyds Walnut Vortex 6-24x50mm mildot
Glenfield 60 Boyds Thumbhole
Glenfield 75C Boyds SS Evolution
Marlin 60W .22LR,
Revelation 120 Western Auto pre-'68
Team 30-30 member #140
Team 60 .22LR member #16
Team X7 .25-06 member #9
Start by bedding the buttstocks forward ends to the action, this prevents the gun from moving left and right, would not hurt to remove a little from the tang area and bedding that also.
Next, bed the forends rear area to the action including around two inches forward of the action forend to bbl.
Keep the forends band loose, run a bead of silicone between the mag tube and the bbl under the forend to dampen vibrations.
Install the front band loose and shoot a three round group, allow for plenty of time to cool (hope you brought two other guns to plink with) if the groups are too large tighten the front band just a little, repeat until it is small or you have to seek accuracy elsewhere.
God Bless Our Troops -- Retired Tool & Die Maker -- The center of an Aspirin is the same size as the center of the moon, aim for the center.
Have just returned from the shooting range. The minor modifications were very successful. groups that were around 5 inches at 100 yards have shrunk to just over an inch. Six groups, 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 inches at 100 yds. The larger groups were with 3031 the smaller were with 4064. Still have the grin on my face.
Oh yes, this is a 35 Remington.
Way to go! Gotta love that .35 Rem!
My 336CS in .35 Rem is my favorite and the most accurate of all my Marlin levers.
Congrads on fixing that accuracy issue and devleoping that rifle into a classic Marlin "shooter".
USN RET Team 35 member #33
Thanks CJ, now I need to find a load that it likes. I want to try some Reloder 7 in this one, my other 35 likes Rx 7 and 4064 very well.
I admire your inquisitiveness and persistence. I can only wish more of our members would realize that this stuff is not difficult and can be found in the Reference Library. If they don't need a gunsmith to install a slip-on recoil pad they can do most of this stuff.Originally Posted by JBledsoe
MO Member #77
If they would quit buildin the pads upside down I'd have a better idea on what to do. DP
TEAM 444 #187, Team 35 #7, Two Marlin 1894Cs, Remlin 1894C, 1894-44mag, 1952 Marlin 30-30, 1966 Texan 30-30. Glenfield 36G & two 30A's 30-30, 30-30 XLR, , five- 35rem. 1951 SC, 1952 SC, 1957, 1975 and 2008, 38-55 CB, M-375, 308 MX, 338MXLR, 444P, 444SS, , XS-7 22-250, XS-7 7mm-08 AI,
"Accurizing the Factory Rifle" by ML McPherson gives some really great techniques for reducing the effect that the forearm and the mag tube have on the rife's accuracy. I've used a lot of the procedures on all my rifles and they really help. The procedures in order of importance (from my perspective) are:
1. Relieve the wood at the rear barrel band (or forend cap) and the receiver/ stock interface. Glass bed both of these areas
2. Polish the mag tube where it meets the receiver until it moves freely.
3. Bed the barrel in the forend with RTV silicone. (This really works well)
4. Polish both barrel bands where they touch the barrel. The forward band should be able to slide on the barrel.
I very seldom see vertical shot stringing in my rifles when I perform the above steps.